Beautiful, bountiful berries

Flower & Garden Magazine, June-July, 1995 by Inger Skaarup

Whether You Have Your OWN BERRY PATCH, OR go to a pick-your-own lot or farmers market, eating one of summer's most luscious pleasures.

Although growing enough berries to eat fresh, can and freeze may be a gardener's dream, it is one that's demanding of garden space. Fortunately, there are ways to get a berry harvest even on tight garden lots. Try growing raspberries as a hedge along a fence. The bright green, decoratively toothed leaves are attractive even when the plant isn't bejeweled with its berry harvest. Strawberries make good container companions for a large pot of cheerful geraniums. A blueberry bush can coexist beautifully with herbaceous plants in a perennial border.

Of course, none of these approaches will provide enough berries to allow you to reminisce over preserves when the snow flies. But at least you will have the pleasure of picking your own berries to eat right there in the garden, or to garnish a bowl of ice cream or morning cereal.

No matter where you gather your berries, remember the berry season is fleeting. Here are a few recipe ideas to try in addition to your own favorites. For a light and simple dessert, the Drunken Blueberry Fool with Cassis is perfect. Its light consistency and make-ahead nature are ideal for summer gatherings. The strawberry soup, likewise, may be made ahead, chilled and served with a few fresh berries for a delicious luncheon first course or as a dessert with pound cake croutons on the side.

For a festive occasion, we suggest the Chocolate Truffle Pie served with raspberry sauce and fresh raspberries. The impressive look and mouthwatering taste belie the fact that this pie is an easy-to-make dessert. In the berry crisp, bountiful blackberries elevate this homey dessert to a luscious showstopper, especially when topped with homemade vanilla ice cream.

Berries are truly naturals for any summer meal and their uses are endless. Whether your berry dishes are easy or elaborate, they are bound to be a hit -- that's the true beauty of summer berries.

Drunken Blueberry Fool with Cassis

It takes only minutes to make this light and simple dessert guaranteed to become a summer favorite. Leftovers can be stored in the freezer and served as frozen mousse.

Serves 6.

1 pint fresh blueberries 114 C granulated sugar 2 to 3 T. cassis 112 C crime fraiche 1/2 C superfine sugar 112 C heavy cream, whipped 2 T finely grated lemon rind Blueberries and sprigs of fresh mint for garnish

In a medium saucepan combine half of the blueberries with the granulated sugar. Place over medium heat and, when the berries begin to exude their juices, reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring often.

Transfer the blueberries to a food processor and process until smooth. Pass the purge through a fine sieve into a bowl and stir in the cassis. Set aside to cool completely.

In a large mixing bowl, combine the creme fraiche, superfine sugar and blueberry puree and whisk until well-blended. Fold in the whipped cream, grated lemon rind, and remaining uncooked blueberries. Cover and refrigerate 2 hours before serving.

To serve, spoon the fool into parfait glasses. Garnish each with a few fresh blueberries and sprig of mint. Serve chilled with cookies, if desired.

Creme Fraiche

Makes 2 cups. 4 T. buttermilk 2 C heavy cream

Combine the buttermilk and heavy cream in a glass jar and whisk until well-blended. Cover the jar loosely and set aside in a warm place until the cream becomes very thick. Stir thoroughly, cover and refrigerate ate. The creme fraiche will keep from 10 days to two weeks; it cannot be frozen.

Note: Creme fraiche can take from 10 to 24 hours to sour and thicken -- it depends mainly on the temperature of your kitchen. Keep the mixture in a warm, draft-free place. From Perla Meyers' Art of Seasonal Cooking by Perla Meyers. Copyright [C] 1991 by Perla Meyers. Reprinted by permission of Simon & Schuster Inc.

Strawberry Soup

Serves 6.

2 pints fresh strawberries 15 ounces sour cream 2 t. vanilla extract 1/2 C. powdered sugar (measured after sifting) 1 to 2 T. grenadine syrup 1/2 C half-and-half Pound cake croutons and additional fresh berries (optional)

Slice strawberries and mix with the sour cream. In a food processor fitted with a steel blade, process briefly. Add remaining ingredients, except half-and-half; process until smooth. Pour into a bowl and add half-and-half last, stirring until wellblended. Chill. To make croutons, cut pound cake into cubes. Toast in the oven under the broiler until lightly browned on all sides, Stir chilled soup gently before serving with pound cake croutons and fresh berries.

Willie's Blackberry Crisp

This recipe is a delicious way to use abundant berries.

Serves 6.

Crust Topping:

1 C. all-purpose flour 1 C. granulated sugar 1 t. baking powder 1 egg, beaten

Blackberry Filling:

2 T. all-purpose flour 314 C granulated sugar 4 to 5 C. fresh (or frozen) blackberries 1 stick unsalted butter, melted

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a medium bowl, combine the flour, sugar and baking powder. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and blend in the egg, mixing until the topping is crumbly. Set aside.