Pass the mustard

Flower & Garden Magazine, Oct-Nov, 1995 by Ray Lagoe

Americans Consume more mustard than any other spice except pepper. I like to think of myself as a "mustard connoisseur" and, like most lovers of this spicy condiment, I quickly outgrew the bland-tasting, bright yellow mustard of my youth. Soon I was scouring the grocery aisles and gourmet shops for hotter and tastier custom-blended mustards.

The turning point in my search for the perfect mustard came on a fall day at the annual harvest festival in a nearby town. Among the jars of pickles, jams and jellies, I spied a jar of homemade mustard. I grabbed the last three jars of dark brown gold and quickly paid the lady at the stand. To my surprise, she offered me her recipe.

After realizing the recipe I had obtained called for mustard seed, I decided to grow my own. Although I have been a gardener all my life, I had never before thought of this alternative.

There are three types of mustard used for culinary purposes. Black mustard (Brassica nigra) is the powerful old-fashioned mustard that gave this condiment its illustrious start. Black mustard is difficult to harvest with modern machines because of the plant's irregular heights, so white or yellow mustard (B. hirta, sometimes referred to as B. alba) has become the favorite of commercial growers. The seed of yellow mustard is larger but less pungent. It is the preferred type for most American brands of prepared mustard. Most of the seed used for commercial mustards, both American and European, is grown on the Great Plains and in Oregon, Washington and California.

Brown mustard (B. juncea) is the hottest type of mustard, and it holds its flavor longer during storage. It is used frequently to season Indian and Oriental cooking or mixed with yellow to make European and gourmet-type mustards.

Mustard is easy to grow - almost too easy, because it can become a weed if allowed to self-sow. Like most members of the Cruciferae family, mustard enjoys cool weather and is hardy to Zone 3. Unlike mustard's cousins in the cabbage family, you'll want to let the plant bolt and set seed, so there's no need to worry about early summers or hot weather.

Sow seed when the soil has warmed to 55 or 60 degrees. I've had good results both planting in rows and broadcasting seed over a large area. Mustard planted in rows (1/4 inch deep and 1 inch apart, later thinned to 3 inches apart) generally grows taller and produces more seed than plants started from the broadcast method. Average garden soil and plenty of sun are the minimum growing requirements, but I scatter a little 5-10-5 fertilizer in the rows before planting. You can expect to harvest approximately one ounce of seed per foot of row.

By midsummer, the plants will be 3 feet high and covered with brilliant yellow flowers. As the flowers fade, seed pods start to form and by August the mature seed pods will be ready for harvest. The pods have an explosive nature when fully ripe and easily burst and scatter seed. To avoid losing valuable seed, harvest when the plants begin to yellow but before the pods become too brittle.

Cut the stalks halfway up just below the first branching stems. Hang the plants upside down to dry in a cool, dry barn or shed, or place them on old window screens for about two weeks. Then place the seed stalks in a clean plastic feed sack and let the kids stomp on them; shake up the bag and let them go at it again. You can also rub and beat the stalks across a fine mesh screen placed over a sheet that will collect any seeds that fall. Either way, what you will end up with is a large pile of seeds mixed with chaff - crushed pieces of dried leaves, stems and broken seed pods.

To sift out most of the heavy chaff, I use an old metal colander with round holes. To remove the remaining chaff, I pour the seed from one mixing bowl to another in front of a portable fan set on low speed (do this outdoors). Pour slowly and let the heavier seed fall into the bottom bowl while the light chaff blows away. Store the seed in glass jars until you are ready to make homemade mustard.

MUSTARD MAKING

Homemade mustard is a golden condiment that scarcely resembles the yellow runny mustards from the grocery store. Instead, it is a taste treat that is good for much more than spreading on a hot dog bun. It can make the old standbys, such as ham-and-cheese lunch sandwiches, new and flavorfully exciting; it adds zest to sauces and vinaigrettes and livens up mayonnaises.

Homemade mustard can be hot and spicy, pungent, zesty, sweet or mellow, smooth or grainy - basically, it can be any way you prefer it. Since making your own mustard is, to a certain degree, a process of experimentation, keep track of what you add or you will not be able to duplicate it once you hit on a flavor combination you particularly enjoy.

Always prepare and store mustard in non-metallic bowls and jars. Do not use aluminum bowls as the vinegar or other acidic ingredients in the mustard will react with the metal and cause the mustard to have a metallic taste.

Basically, mustard is made by mixing fresh ground mustard seed with a liquid (anything from water to beer, vinegar or wine) in a blender to form a paste. To this paste you can add any combination of ingredients from salt to herbs and jalapeno peppers. Add small amounts of the ingredients at a time until you get the desired flavor intensity. Adding honey or an acidic liquid, such as vinegar, citrus juice or wine, reduces the spiciness for people with tamer taste buds.