Uncommonly chives

Flower & Garden Magazine, Sept-Oct, 1997 by Lee Mitchell

Chives -- they're common enough on a baked potato with sour cream. Toss them into almost any other dish, however, and you've created an uncommon treat for your taste buds. Chives, Allium schoenoprasum, are close relatives of onions, garlic, leeks and scallions. A strong, pungent scent is a shared trait among this group, with chives inheriting the most delicate flavor: mildly sharp and subtle.

Chives are native to Asia. In ancient times, Chinese herbalists used the hollow leaves in herbal remedies. Legend tells us that the herb was brought to Europe by Marco Polo, where the pungent scent led to other uses. European housewives hung bunches of chives in doorways to turn aside evil spirits. Somewhere, though, its use in cookery was discovered and there its reputation has remained.

In your garden, chives are easy to grow. A perennial that rebounds after every cutting, it will reward not only with seasoning for your menu, but as an attractive border plant. Growing swiftly at the onset of early spring, chives reach between 10 and 18 inches tall and nearly as wide by late spring. During this early season, rose-purple heads of the faintest mauve shoot above slender, grassy foliage. Whether planted in several clusters or as a lone specimen against a backdrop of greenery, chives provide a lively effect with their flower heads. The hollow stems lend just enough sway to keep the plants in motion.

Once the flower show starts to fade but before seeds have a chance to develop, cut back the entire plant with sharp garden scissors. Within a week or so, the grassy leaves spring back in abundance. Now the fun begins -- garnish those summer dishes.

Cut the slender leaves as needed daily, rinse under cold water and pat dry. Using sharp kitchen scissors, finely snip the leaves. The rule to cooking with chives is to add the minced leaves after the meal preparation is completed. Sprinkle chives on your dish right before you serve it, whether it is summer vegetables, green salads, cheesy dips, steamed rice or grilled meats. You name it -- chives can enhance almost any meal.

A great summer favorite of mine is a tomato-and-chive sandwich. Simply spread mayonnaise on soft slices of bread, slice a tomato, add a little lettuce and sprinkle the chives -- instead of the salt. You'll go back for seconds. And thirds. Another daring trick for a lunch party is to float the minced leaves and flower heads (the flowers are edible but are mainly used for show) in a bowl of fresh, slightly chilled tomato soup.

To test this herb extensively you'll need an ample supply. Local nurseries frequently stock chives in early spring, generally in 2-inch pots. Select several and choose a spot in your garden that gets plenty of sun, preferably along a border. Work some compost into a hole dug twice the size of the root ball. Plant your seedlings and water well. You'll soon be able to harvest chives.

If potted plants are not available, chives can be started from seed in spring or early fall. The process is slower since seedlings need time to establish roots. Keep chive seedlings well watered and free of weeds.

To increase your yield or share a plant with a friend, divide established clumps every three years. Allow a cluster of small bulbs to remain with each division. Or, if you prefer to gather seeds, leave a few flower heads to ripen. You also can dry or freeze the leaves for the winter months ahead. However you slice them, chives provide a flavor kick that is uncommonly good.

POTATO BREAD WITH CHIVES

Make mashed potatoes without the usual flavorings, and then make this bread -- a solid loaf that toasts well and tastes good.

Makes three loaves.

1/2 lb. white potatoes (about 1 C. mashed)
1 C. potato water
2 packets active dry yeast (about 2 T.)
2 T. sugar
2 C. milk, warmed to the scalding point and cooled
3 T. safflower or canola oil, plus more for oiling
3 t. salt
8 C. unbleached all-purpose flour
2 T. caraway seeds
3 T. finely snipped fresh chives