Colorful, Complex Creations Adorn Irish Dancers

Dance Magazine, Oct, 2001 by Darrah Carr

New trends are spotted at the annual World Irish Dance Championships and carried home via participating dancers. For the past thirty-one years, this event has been held in Ireland (although they were cancelled this year due to the threat of foot and mouth disease; see Presstime News, Dance Magazine, July, page 33). The establishment of the Worlds and the proliferation of trends in dressmaking seem to have a consequential rather than coincidental relationship.

One current trend is to make the skirt panels extremely stiff. Many dressmakers use vilene, a thick, firm material similar to cardboard that is manufactured in Ireland solely for this purpose. While stiffener facilitates the display of intricate embroidery, it also makes the costume a little unwieldy. In the most extreme cases, explains Pat MacKinnon, another designer from Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, "Dancers have to go through the door sideways. They put their shoes and bloomers on first because they can't bend over or sit down, except to perch on a stool." Regarding the trend toward stiffness, MacNeil remarks, "The dresses I make can stand up on the floor by themselves--it looks like someone is in them."

The combination of vilene and the velvet material that dresses frequently are made from adds up to a very heavy costume. Richardson notes that a velvet costume she recently shipped to a customer weighed eight pounds, while MacNeil's most recent design was seven and one-half pounds. Given the weight of velvet, the latest inclination is to make costumes from silk. Though lighter to wear, silk is not as durable as velvet, particularly when confronted with thousands of embroidery stitches. Metallic fabrics, referred to as glitter ball or disco dots because of the multiple glued-on sequins, also have become popular in recent years. The problem with metallics, however, is that they can't be dry-cleaned, nor are these hand-crafted costumes machine washable. Indeed, as McGarry says, "There is nothing more high maintenance than a solo costume."

Perhaps the most convenient development of late is the wigs that dancers wear. Traditionally, girls slept with a head full of tied rags in order to achieve the idealized image of a curly-haired Irish lass. Today, that look can be instantaneous, thanks to the help of a tightly curled wig. Although this accessory can cost up to $150, dancers and costumers alike proclaim that a better night's sleep, as well as the chance to cool off in the pool during a competition held at a hotel, makes a wig well worth the price.

A dancer's costume can greatly affect her poise and confidence. As MacKinnon points out, "Stage presence counts; it is not just a dress, it is a costume. If a girl is not feeling good about what she is wearing, she is not going to dance well. The fancier the costume, the better she'll feel about herself. It often happens that in a brand-new dress, a dancer will win first. She'll be flying!"

While dancers may view a new costume as a source of pride and as an individual statement, parents often regard solo dresses as an investment. The cost starts around $900 and can run as high as $1,500, depending on the design's complexity. It is not unheard of for top-level dancers to receive a new costume nearly every year. Parents must factor in the cost of a dancer's school costume, a more uniform dress bearing the specific designs of her school that is required for team competitions. School costumes also have become more elaborate, averaging around $500. Fortunately, there is a large market for second-hand dresses!