A tourist guide to Chiapas - Mexico

Monthly Review, May, 1994 by Rafael Sebastian Guillen Vicente

Better for us to move on, let's return to the paved roads. Yes, I know that it is in bad condition. Let's leave Ocosingo, continue to admire the countryside . . . The owners? Yes, ranch owners. Production? Cattle, coffee, corn . . . Did you see the National Indigenous Institute? Yes, the one as you leave the city. Did you see those pick-up trucks? They are given on credit to indigenous peasants. They only take unleaded gas because its better for the environment . . . There is no unleaded gas in Ocosingo? Well, that's just a little thing. . . Yes, you are right, the government is worried about the peasants. Of course evil tongues say that there are guerrillas in these mountains and that the government's financial help is really to buy indigenous people's loyalty, but these are rumors, surely they are just trying to undermine Pronasol. . . What? The Citizen's Defense Committee? Oh yes! It consists of a group of "heroic" cattle-raisers, traders, and corrupt union bosses who organize small guards to give threats.

No, I already told you that the Profilista large-landed estate was done away with seventy-five years ago. . . It would be better for us to move on. . . at the next intersection take a left. No, don't go towards Palenque. Let's go to Chilon . . . pretty, no? Yes Yajalon. . . very modern, it even has a gas station. . . look, there's a bank, the municipal building, the courthouse, over there the army. . . It looks like another hacienda? Let's go and you won't see those other large, modern buildings in the outskirts, along the road to Tila and Sabanilla with their big beautiful SOLIDARITY signs, you won't see that it is. . .a jail.

Good, we got to the intersection. Now to Ocosingo. . . Palenque? Are you sure? Okay, let's go. Yes, beautiful countryside. Are those ranches? Correct: cattle, coffee, wood. Look, we're already at Palenque. A quick tour of the city? Okay. Those are hotels, over there restaurants, the municipal building, the courthouse, those are the army barracks, and over there.. What? No, I already know what you're going to tell me. . . Don't say it. . . Tired? Okay, we'll stop for a bit. You don't want to see the pyramids? No? Okay% XiNich? Ah. . . an indigenous march. Yes, it's going to Mexico City. How far? 1,106 kilometers. Results? They receive their petitions. Yes, that's all. Are you still tired? More? Let's hope. . . To Bonampak? The road is very bad. Okay, let's go. Yes, the panoramic route . . . this is the federal military reserves, that other one, the navy, the one over there the Ministry of Government. . . Is it always like this? No, sometimes they top it off with a peasants' protest March. Tired? Do you want to go back? Okay. Other places? In what country? Mexico? You will see the same. The colors will change, the languages, the country-side, the names, but the people, the exploitation, the misery and death is the same. just look closely. In any state in the Republic. Well, good luck. . . and if you need a tourist guide please be sure to let me know. I'm at your service. Oh! One more things. It will not always be this way. Another Mexico? No, the same. . . I am talking about something else, about other winds beginning to blow, as if another wind is picking up. . .