For the Coffee Table

Natural History, Dec, 2008 by Laurence A. Marschall

Natural Fashion: Tribal Decoration from Africa

by Hans Silvester

Thames & Hudson, 2008: $45.00

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Young boys and girls of the Surma and Mursi tribes, in the Omo Valley at the juncture of Ethiopia, Kenya, and Sudan, are arguably the last remaining adolescents on the planet who do not dress themselves in Western-style T-shirts emblazoned with logos. That is not surprising, according to photographer Hans Silvester, because until quite recently the nomadic residents of this remote region did not even have mirrors. Yet judging from the samples presented in this unusual book of portraits, Surma and Mursi teenagers are as image conscious as their counterparts in more developed parts of the world--and considerably more resourceful.

A brief introductory chapter describes how the young folks paint their faces and bodies with wild graffiti-like designs that range from intricate geometric patterns to flamboyant harlequin makeup. Individuality is key--no one, it seems, wants to look like anyone else. As art, this self-adornment is ephemeral, easily removed by a quick plunge in the river to be re-done in completely different style. As culture, it is equally ephemeral: no profound tradition underlies the ornate decorations. "They simply enjoy them," Silvester reports, "are happy to have made them, and are even happier to have them praised." The 160 elegant photographs speak for themselves. These are young people clearly having a good time. They are undoubtedly posing for the photographer, but also expressing genuine feelings to him and to their friends: sophisticated dignity, coy flirtation, unselfconscious happiness.

LAURENCE A. MARSCHALL is W.K.T. Sahm Professor of Physics at Gettysburg College in Pennsylvania, and director of Project CLEA, which produces widely used simulation software for education in astronomy.