The Cayman Islands: birders in the know are finding their way to Cayman Brac, one of the three Cayman Islands

CAYMAN BRAC, A SMALL ISLAND IN THE western Caribbean Sea, is one of the least explored birding destinations in the West Indies, but it is a birders' delight: miles of trails through tropical forests and coastal woodlands, good roadside viewing, and lots and lots of birds. In fact, 180 of the Cayman Islands' 224 bird species are found on the Brac.

One of the best times to visit the Brac is between August and May, when large numbers of migrants flock to the island, joining resident seabirds, wetland species, and an interesting combination of endemics. Don't miss Amazona leucocephala hesterna, the Brac parrot, the smallest member of the green Amazon parrot family. This parrot's size, coloring, call, and habits make it very different from its cousins on Grand Cayman, Cuba, and the Bahamas, so much so that if studies on its genetic makeup confirm that its genes are as distinctive as the rest of its attributes, it will become a new species. Look for this near-threatened parrot in the forests of the Parrot Reserve, established by the National Trust.

In the fall, parrots are seen everywhere on Cayman Brac. After months of child-rearing duties at the nest, the pairs emerge to teach their offspring the do's and don'ts of life in the forest. They fly from one fruiting tree to another; favorites include red birch, pepper cinnamon, wild fig, mangoes and papaya. Because they are creatures of habit, the parrots can be seen at regular sites as they fly to and from their breeding and roosting sites.

To see the five species of land birds that occur together on the Brac--Caribbean elaenia, vitelline warbler, thick-billed vireo, red-legged thrush, and Brac parrot--would otherwise require visits to the Swan Islands, coastal Central America, Cuba, and the Bahamas. The thrush is sartorially elegant in gray and black, with red legs and bill. It is usually noisy and bossy, but from November to January it becomes silent and disappears into the forest.

In between birding outings, try a little snorkeling or diving on the Russian wreck. You might go fly- and deep-sea fishing; photograph iguanas, orchids, and butterflies; or visit historic houses, caves, and the museum. And then there are the sunsets!