Treasured tomatoes - recommended 'heirloom' tomatoes include Amish Paste, Brandywine, Cherokee Purple, Costoluto Genovese, Evergreen, Goldie, Great White, and others; growing tips are included - Brief Article

Sunset, Spring, 1997 by Elaine Johnson, Lauren Bonar Swezey

Heirloom varieties offer rich rewards to gardeners and cooks

Ruby color, round shape, and rich, herbaceous flavor once defined that glory of summer, the ripe tomato. These days, the color may be vibrant green, near white, or chocolate. The size can be that of a pea or a baseball, and the form can be lumpy, pear-shaped, or ruffled. And the taste? Intensely sweet to tangy, tropical, or earthy. Yet despite such novel qualities, these "new" tomatoes actually go back centuries.

Heirloom is the term given to many of the tomatoes. They're varieties that have passed from generation to generation among families and friends. By growing heirlooms we keep their heritage alive.

Of hundreds of varieties, those listed here and pictured at left got the most votes from our survey of expert growers for memorable flavor, good looks, and adaptation to the West's climates.

TOP-RATED TOMATOES

Unless noted, plants are indeterminate (vinelike types that need support) and generally bear over a longer period than determinate plants (compact and bushy types). For seed sources, see page 118.

'Amish Paste'. Dates to the turn of the century. Oblong, pastetype fruit with solid flesh, few seeds, sweet flavor; also used for slicing. Large for a paste tomato.

'Brandywine'. An Amish Beefsteak with pink-red color. Large; rich flavor, firm-soft texture, thin skin.

'Cherokee Purple'. Said to have originated with the Cherokee. Pink-chocolate with handsome green stripes on shoulders, round to oblong, medium-size. Sweet, earthy, complex flavor; soft texture. Big producer; disease-tolerant.

'Costoluto Genovese'. An Italian variety with an unusual fluted profile. Deep red color; intense, full, sweet flavor; meaty texture. Size varies. Good fresh or cooked. Vigorous plant; heavy yield.

'Evergreen'. Yellow-green with vivid green interior. Medium to large, with irregular shape; sweet-tart flavor; firm texture; delicate skin. Vigorous plant.

'Goldie'. Large, with beautiful golden orange color, sweet flavor, good acid balance. Vigorous plant.

'Great White'. Actually a light yellow. Large Beefsteak with mild, melonlike flavor, low acidity. Vigorous plant.

'Green Grape'. Cherry-type tomato. Yellow-green when ripe. Very sweet and juicy taste with some acidity; seeds are small. Often sold as an heirloom, though it is a more recent open-pollinated variety. Compact, determinate plant; a prolific producer.

'Marvel Stripe'. Originally from Oaxaca, Mexico. Large bicolored Beefsteak-type yellow tomato with red stripes. Mildly sweet, good tomato flavor, low acidity. Vigorous plant; a prolific producer.

'Orange Cherry'. Large (1 1/2 inches) for a cherry-type tomato, with intense orange color and exceptionally sweet tomato taste.

'Red Currant'. A species from South America with clusters of pea-size fruits. Sweet-tart, fruity flavor. Vigorous, prolific plant. 'Yellow Currant' is similar.

'Stupice'. All-around favorite, from eastern Europe. Small; rich red color; sweet, nicely balanced, regular tomato taste. Slightly tough skin. Excellent fresh or roasted. Early, heavy producer; easy to grow.

GROWING TIPS

Sow seeds in flats or containers six to eight weeks before danger of last frost is past; set them on a water heater or use a heating coil to keep between 75 [degrees] and 90 [degrees]. Keep soil moist. Right after germination, set plants in bright, indirect light.

After several sets of leaves form, transplant into 4-inch pots. Water only enough to keep roots from drying out; fertilize weekly with fish emulsion or half-strength liquid fertilizer.

A week or so before transplanting into the ground, set tomatoes outside in partial shade (protect from frost); gradually introduce them into full sun.

Plant in full sun in soil amended with compost, well-rotted manure, or an organic fertilizer. Set determinate types about 2 feet apart, indeterminate types 3 feet apart. In cool or short-season climates, cover planting bed with black plastic, plant through it, then cover with row covers. Water regularly to get plants established, then water deeply but less frequently to develop deep rooting.

HARVEST AND STORAGE

For best flavor, harvest tomatoes when they're fully colored. Never refrigerate a tomato that isn't completely ripe (fully colored); flavor development will stop, though color may continue to change. Experts agree that tomatoes are tastiest at room temperature.

FROM GARDEN TO KITCHEN

Multicolored tomatoes team up with roasted chilies in this salsa-flavored salad.

Fireworks Tomato Salad

Cooking time: About 10 minutes

Prep time: About 30 minutes

Notes: This rainbow-colored salad with the lively flavor of salsa shows off the smaller tomatoes' shapes. Serve on its own, spooned over slices of larger tomatoes, or with steak or chicken.

Makes: 4 servings

3/4 pound (3 to 4) fresh pasilla or Anaheim chilies

1 large fresh jalapeno chili

5 cups small, ripe, multicolored heirloom tomatoes (or 1-inch chunks of larger tomatoes)

2 tablespoons lime juice

1/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro, plus sprigs Salt and pepper

1. Place pasilla and jalapeno chilies on a 10-by 15-inch baking sheet. Broil 2 to 3 inches from heat until black and blistered all over, turning as needed, 6 to 10 minutes.