Kauai: going natural - The Hawaii of Your Dreams

Sunset, Jan, 1999 by Jeff Phillips

1 HULEIA STREAM KAYAKING. The drill for Kauai's newest guided adventure tour is simple: paddle 1 1/2 miles up Huleia Stream past the mangrove-covered rock wall of an 800-year-old fish pond, into a refuge for rare native Hawaiian waterfowl, and under the mango tree Indiana Jones did a vine swing from in the opening scene of Raiders of the Lost Ark, then hike another 1 1/2 miles through leafy forest to the wide curtain of Kipu Falls. Oh, and have fun. Four-hour morning and afternoon tours daily from Outfitters Kauai; $68, $55 ages 5-14; 742-9667.

2 SUNSHINE MARKETS. The Garden Isle didn't get its moniker just because it's green. Small farms have always been a staple here, but now you can meet growers and sample the island's fruits and produce at seven county-supported farmers' markets. Our favorite is at the ballpark in the old sugar town of Koloa at noon Mondays and Wednesdays. 241-6390 for times and locations.

3 FOSSIL DUNES. Reg Gage knows the sandy shores and rocky headlands east of Keoniloa Bay in Poipu the way the Leakeys know Olduvai Gorge. On his free guided walks, Gage points out passing whales and native plants as he explains the area's tortured geology and native history. Reservations are required for the two-hour hike - courtesy of the Kauai Historical Society - on alternating Monday mornings; 332-8390.

4 CAFFEINE CONNECTION. If you find a dark roast more alluring than a dark suntan, swing by the new Kauai Coffee Company Visitor Center, on one of the largest plantations in the state, for tasting and a video explaining how coffee is grown. Most afternoons the staff roasts a small batch of premium beans, which can only be bought here. State 540 near Kalaheo; 9-5 daily; (800) 545-8605.

5 HANAPEPE ARTISTS NIGHT. Time and State 50 have both passed by the wood false-fronts of plantation-era Hanapepe. Still, plenty of people find it, especially on Friday nights, when local artists and a few musicians come to town. Walk across the swinging bridge, then visit the dozen galleries and shops along Hanapepe Road that stay open late. Stop at the Hanapepe care & Espresso Bar for music and vegetarian food. 335-0046 for gallery information.

6 SAFE FAMILY SWIM. When big surf and tricky currents hit north and east shore beaches, even local families head for the south shore. One lifeguarded gem most visitors overlook is Salt Pond Beach County Park. With rest rooms, picnic pavilions, and palms for shade, this wide crescent of beach has sheltered pools on each end where tiny tots can splash. 1 mile southwest of Hanapepe at the end of Lolo Kai Rd.; 241-6660.

7 KOKEE HIKE. Cool, often drizzly Kokee State Park above Waimea Canyon offers some of Kauai's most dramatic and varied rainforest hiking. Options include the recently reopened Ditch Trail winding 3 3/4 miles through native koa and ohia forests along the edge of Poomau Canyon. There's also Canyon Trail to Waipoo Falls and Waimea Canyon views; Pihea Trail has clear-day views north over the Na Pall Coast. Weather can make trailhead access difficult; stop at the Kokee Natural History Museum for updates and maps before heading out. 10-4 daily; 335-9975.

8 ANCIENT GARDENS. Terraced into a steep, lush, mountain-rimmed valley, Limahuli Garden is serenely spectacular. Its 700-year-old lava-rock terrace walls, originally built by native Hawaiians, have been restored and planted with taro and other traditional food plants. A short trail loops through the lower valley for a hilltop view. The garden, a branch of the National Tropical Botanical Garden, is near road's end at Kee Beach. Tue.Fri, Sun; $10 self-guided tour, $15 guided; 826-1053.

9 RIDING THE RANGE. The waterfall picnic ride from Princeville Ranch Stables isn't your typical nose-to-tail trail ride. Wranglers encourage riders to spread out as they ramble the north shore pastures of the oldest continuously worked cattle ranch in the country. Adventure awaits on the short walk down to the feathery plume of Kalihiwai Fails for a picnic and a swim. Four-hour waterfall ride $110; 826-6777.

10 BIKING THE COAST. Running above a reefy stretch of coast pocketed with tiny beaches, Kealia Trail in Kapaa is an easy family mountain-bike ride, away from highways. The first 3 miles of patched pavement and gravel cane-haul road is easy for beginners; past Kealia Beach, the trail intersects enough meandering single tracks to keep experienced riders happy all day. Bike rentals $20 a day at Kauai Cycle & Tour; 821-2115.