Oahu: Honolulu's island - The Hawaii of Your Dreams

Sunset, Jan, 1999 by Jeff Phillips

1 BEST SHOPPING FOR HAWAIIANA. For a replica of a Queen Liliuokalani rocker or a koawood model of a Hawaiian canoe, try Martin & MacArthur (Aloha Tower Marketplace; 524-6066), Nohea Gallery (Ward Warehouse; 596-0074) specializes in contemporary arts and crafts like glass-thin bowls carved from Norfolk Island pine. Vintage silk aloha shirts are hot at Bailey's Antiques & Aloha Shirts (517 Kapahulu Ave.; 734-7628), as are swivel-hipped hula girl statues.

2 HAWAII'S MONARCHY. One of the world's first royal residences with indoor plumbing, the lovingly restored Iolani Palace is the centerpiece of downtown Honolulu's compact historic district. Stop first at Mission Houses Museum (553 S. King St.; 531-0481), with exhibits in buildings dating back to 1821. Across the street, the 1842 Kawaiahao Church with its thick, coral-stone walls still has the royal pew. Finish with a tour of the palace, the home of Queen Liliuokalani when she was overthrown in 1893. Reservations recommended for Iolani Palace; 522-0823.

3 CONTEMPORARY MUSEUM. Contemporary art may not top your Hawaii vacation list, but the hillside grounds of this museum's gracious 1925 estate should. The wide-angle views from Diamond Head to Punchbowl alone are worth a visit, as is a leisurely lunch (523-3362 for reservations) in the outdoor cafe. Think of the January 15 opening of works by Susan Rothenberg as a bonus. 2411 Makiki Heights Dr.; Tue-Sun; $5, $3 students; 526-0232.

4 HONOLULU'S OTHER BEACH. Where do local families plant their beach umbrellas? Nearly a mile long, Ala Moana Beach Park is sheltered from waves by a reef and has smooth white sand, lifeguards, rest rooms, a snack bar, and tree-shaded grass. Our favorite picnic spot is at the Diamond Head end of the park. Across from Ala Moana Shopping Center; 6 A.M.-8 P.M.; 547-7275 or 592-2288.

5 BOTANICAL RETREAT. Tucked in a wild, green niche of upper Manoa Valley, 194-acre Harold L. Lyon Arboretum may be a working branch of the University of Hawaii, but paths meandering through its extensive, invitingly landscaped tropical gardens are a pleasantly cool respite from urban Honolulu. 3860 Manoa Rd.; 9-3 Mon-Sat; 988-7378.

6 MIGHTY MO IS BACK. The brass is polished, and on January 29 the USS Missouri - the Navy's largest battleship - will open her hatches to Pearl Harbor visitors. She was retired after action in the Gulf War, but her fame goes back to World War II, when the Japanese surrender was signed on her decks. Guided two-hour tours take you from the gun decks, with their view of the nearby USS Arizona Memorial, through the officers' quarters and Ward Room for a glimpse of life at sea. Battleship Missouri Memorial; daily; $10, $6 ages 4-12; (877) 644-4896 for reservations.

7 REALLY BIG SURF. If you think Waikiki surf is big, imagine the power of rollers tall enough to scrub the eaves of a three-story building. Champion surfers ride the big ones on Oahu's north shore this time of year at competitions like the Morey World Bodyboarding Championships (396-2326) and the Quiksilver Eddie Aikau Memorial (949/851-2774).

8 RING TWICE FOR ENLIGHTENMENT. Ring the 3-ton brass bell at the entrance to Byodo-In Temple to calm the spirit before entering this replica of a Buddhist temple built in Uji, Japan, 900 years ago. The temple, with its blue tile roof and red pillars and walls, is the centerpiece of a Japanese garden in the Valley of the Temples Memorial Park. On Kahekili Hwy. near Kaneohe; 8-4:30 daily; $2, $1 ages 3-12; 239-8811.

9 GOLF CHALLENGE. The links at recently refurbished Koolau Golf Club in Kaneohe may be the most challenging 18 holes in the nation (the USGA slope rating is - yikes - 162), but its setting beneath the serrate cliffs of the Koolau Range also makes it one of the most spectacular. Global positioning systems on golf carts should help (yeah, right), as will the solace of a cool drink and the view from the clubhouse after your round. Greens fees $125; 236-4653 for directions and tee times.

10 VIEWS FROM MAUNAWILI. Just over the jagged ridgeline of the Nuuanu Pali behind Honolulu, Maunawili Trail is still new enough to be undiscovered and, with tree-filtered views over Kailua Bay, is gorgeous enough to top any hike list. Weaving along the back of Maunawili Valley, the mostly easy 9-mile trail can be muddy in spots. From Honolulu take the Pali Highway east and park at a scenic overlook 0.8 mile past the second tunnel. 973-9782 for a map and trail updates.