Maui: on the beach - The Hawaii of Your Dreams

Sunset, Jan, 1999 by Lora J. Finnegan

1 BEST BEACH? We pick the three Kamaole Beach Parks as Maui's best for families. All three have lifeguards and offer good shallow areas for the sand flea-level swimmers, plus grassy play areas, picnic tables, and rest rooms. Oh, and killer views of cloud-wreathed Lanai, shimmering offshore like Bali Hai. On Kihei Rd. just north of the Wailea resort complex. Maui Dive Shop (879-1533) for gear rentals and local water conditions.

2 A WHALE OF A SANCTUARY. Made official in 1997, the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary includes parts of Kauai and the Big Island, but humpbacks congregate in Maul waters from late November to April. Whale-watch cruises by nonprofits like the Pacific Whale Foundation (879-8860) are naturalist-guided and start at $21 for two hours. Sanctuary visitor center, 726 S. Kihei Rd.; (800) 831-4888.

3 FISH-EYE VIEW. Snorkel without even getting wet at the new Maui Ocean Center, the Hawaiian Aquarium. It's the state's only aquarium to focus entirely on Hawaiian species: check out Turtle Lagoon and Sting Ray Cove, or hang out inside the walkthrough tunnel and watch sharks swim by. In Maalae Harbor Village off State 30; 9-5 daily; $17.50, $12 ages 3-12; 270-7000.

4 ANCIENT FOOTSTEPS. The Lahaina Pali Trail reveals grand mountain and ocean vistas from the remnants of an early 1800s stonelined footpath. Start early. The climb is steep (you gain nearly 1,600 feet) and can be hot and windy, but the views of Haleakala and the islet of Molokini are worth the 2 1/3-mile trek to the trail's high point. Trailhead parking is at milepost 11 on State 30. 9848100 for a free trail guide.

5 SNORKELER'S SANCTUARY. Up past Kapalua Bay on Maui's northwest corner is rugged Honolua Bay. It's not a park but a marine sanctuary - no comforts and no official parking. Still, Snorkel Bob says the fish are big and the reefs spectacular. When strong winds or big waves make conditions dangerous, head back to sheltered Kapalua beaches. Off State 30 about 1/2 mile past milepost 32.

6 MAUI'S HIDDEN NATURE. Most visitors hike into Iao Valley State Park to see the Needle and miss the haystack, sort of - it's the valley's new $1.2-million Interactive Science Arcade, which unlocks Hawaii's natural world (lie down on a dragonfly bench and take a simulated flight). 875 Iao Valley Rd., Wailuku; daily; $6, $4 ages 4-12; 244-6500.

7 MAUI ARTS & CULTURAL CENTER. Settle in among the locals at the center's Castle Theater to hear the Maul Symphony Orchestra's Vivaldi program on January 10, or watch the West Hawaii Dance Theatre on January 30. Programs are scheduled year-round at the art gallery, outdoor amphitheater, and pa hula - a raised platform dedicated to traditional Hawaiian hula. In Maul Central Park, Kahului; 242-7469.

8 LYIN' LOW IN LOWER PAIA. This once-deserted plantation town, with its brightly painted false-front shops, is again bustling - with restaurants, boutiques, and art galleries. Talk windsurfing (or buy surfwear) at Hi-Tech or tall technique with the artists at Maui Crafts Guild as you roam among the pottery, bamboo work, and batik. About 5 miles east of the Kahului Airport; 244-3530.

9 UPCOUNTRY FOR THE BIRDS. An early experiment in reforestation, Hosmer Grove's eucalyptus, pines, and acacias attract a variety of native Hawaiian forest birds. Pick up a hiking guide to the grove loop trail - you may spot an amakihi, Maui creeper, or the bold apapane. They're all tiny but delightfully vocal, so even if you can't see them, you'll be charmed by their songs. In Haleakala National Park; 572-4400.

10 BLACK SAND OF WAIANAPANAPA. Like a huge black comma, the arcing black-sand beach at Waianapanapa State Park punctuates a lava-strewn coastline. Explore its sea caves or hike a trail snaking across the clifftops to a heiau. Tent-camp or reserve a cabin. About 4 miles north of Hana off the Hana Hwy. (State 36/360); 984-8109.