A food lover's treasure trove - Los Angeles suburb of Artesia

Sunset, July, 1999 by Andrew Baker

Some of the best food shopping in the West is served up along Pioneer Boulevard in the L.A. suburb of Artesia. Foodstuffs of every sort - all the essentials for an Indian meal, plus everyday produce and spices - are sold here at bargain prices. Interspersed among the grocers are sari shops and jewelers as well as snack stops and restaurants offering immediate gratification to shoppers.

Area code is 562; addresses are on Pioneer unless noted.

SHOPPING

Forget expensive tiny tins of spices: This neighborhood sells in quantity. For example, cloves come in 14-ounce packages (about $1.70).

Beyond spices, the choices vary from store to store: basmati rice in 10-pound sacks (about $9), fenugreek-flavor flatbreads, fresh turmeric, and rose syrup. Among the best: Farm Fresh (18612; 865-8171) carries produce like fresh fenugreek and baby eggplant, plus British food products for hungry expatriates. House of Spices (18550; 8609919) is an emporium of flavorful edibles, including tea, beans, and rice. Novelty's (18607; 865-5664) gleams with stainless steel cooking and serving pieces; it also sells bracelets and fashion accessories.

SNACKING

Indian snacks and sweets come in a rainbow array, from green pistachio candy topped with edible silver to neon-orange jalebi, a crispy fritter soaked in a saffron syrup. Many start with familiar flavors and textures: Think of sev and chevra as Chex mix flavored with turmeric or cayenne. Surati Farsan Mart (11814 E. 186th St.; 860-2310 or www.suratifarsan.com) has a full line of treats (also available by mail order), as well as light meals.

EATING

The following restaurants serve lunch and dinner.

Ambala Dhaba (18413; 402-7990) offers ludhiana chicken - marinated in a spicy yogurt sauce and cooked in a tandoori oven. It's a steal at $6. Soothe scorched taste buds with housemade pistachio kulfi (ice cream).

Jay Bharat (18701; 924-3310) specializes in dosas and uttapas (thin rice-flour pancakes) with savory fillings. Add chutney and sambar soup for a hearty snack.

Udupi Palace (18635; 860-1950). Sari-clad waitresses serve vegetarian cuisine here. The tamarind rice is a mountain of spiced basmati with cashews. Honey-infused desserts, made with almonds or carrots, are a rich, sweet ending. Generous servings at reasonable prices.

Artesia is about 20 miles south of downtown Los Angeles. From State 91, exit at Pioneer Blvd. and drive south about 1/2 mile. Most shops and restaurants are open 11-8 Tue-Sun. Ample parking.