In the Sierra Nevada west of Reno, Donner Summit is a summer playground - includes related article on Donner Summit Lodging

Sunset, July, 1999 by Jeff Phillips

Winter doesn't knock at California's Donner Summit, in the mountains just west of Lake Tahoe. It barges in with an attitude that's as hard as ice. The bite of frigid winds reminds shivering locals that Truckee, California, can be the coldest place in the country, and any remaining doubters need only reflect on the fate of the snowbound Donner Party back in 1846.

Summer on the summit is a different story. Cresting in cliffs that resemble medieval battlements, the High Sierra here becomes a parkland of forests and wildflowers that is both inviting and accessible by July. While the area isn't exactly undiscovered, it isn't overcrowded either - partly because the summit's most magnificent mountains and lakes aren't visible from the wide lanes of Interstate 80, which zips right through the region's heart.

The best way to view this country is to get off the freeway and onto old Donner Pass Road, a slow but scenic byway meandering 11 miles to the historic railroad town of Truckee.

From the turnoff at Soda Springs, the road first makes a surprisingly gentle climb past Sugar Bowl and Donner ski areas to the 7,088-foot pass. Stop at the top to check out the road's precipitous drop down the eastern face of the pass. Due east, the indigo pool of Donner Lake shimmers under the sun. Its far shore, where the Donner Party made its ill-fated winter camp, is now part of Donner Memorial State Park.

To the right of the lake, behind a low ridge, is Coldstream Canyon, site of the original Overland Emigrant Trail and now a good beginner's mountain-bike ride. To the left, north of the freeway, is the location of the first completed leg of the Donner Lake Rim Trail. Behind you the Pacific Crest Trail crosses the road at the top of the pass. Beyond Donner Lake is the town of Truckee. With its historic buildings, restaurants, and shops, Truckee's Commercial Row (Donner Pass Rd.) is well worth a leisurely investigation.

Easiest air access to Donner Summit is through Reno, 30 miles east. For Lodging and summer events, contact the Truckee Donner Chamber of Commerce at (530) 587-2757 or www.truckee.com. For hiking and camping information and maps, contact the Tahoe National Forest Big Bend Visitor Information Center (it's a mile west of the Rainbow Rd. exit from 1-80). The center is open 8 to 4:30 daily in summer; call (530) 426-3609 or visit www.r5.fs.fed.us/tahoe.

So make a few phone calls, and go. This time of year, all you'll require are hiking and biking gear and sun protection. The mountains call, and winter is still months away.

Area code is 530.

friday

Getting primed. Start with a big, bad, put-gravy-on-it breakfast at Coffee And (10106 Donner Pass Rd.; 587-3123).

Got milk? Ponderosa Deli (10068 Donner Pass Rd.; 587-3555) has whatever picnic supplies you forgot.

Tragic beauty. A short drive west of town on Donner Pass Rd. takes you to Donner Memorial State Park (12593 Donner Pass Rd.; 582-7892), where a small museum tells the tragic story of the Donner Party. A short nature trail takes you past a site where the families built shelters; take the trail out along the lakeshore for gorgeous views.

To make a day of it, rent kayaks, canoes, fishing boats, and even personal watercraft in the park at Donner Lake Water Sports (reserve ahead; 582-1999), starting at $10 per hour for a paddleboat.

Afternoon leg-stretcher. Continue acclimating to the thin, high-elevation air on the easy, shady 2-mile trail up to Summit Lake; it connects to the Donner Lake Rim Trail. For a map, call the Truckee Donner Land Trust (582-4711).

Over the rainbow. Take 1-80 west over the summit to wet your whistle on the streamside patios of historic Rainbow Lodge (1/2 mile west of the Rainbow Rd. exit from 1-80; 426-3661); stay for dinner (reservations advised) in the stonewalled dining room.

saturday

Sprouts? Choose your fillings for eye-opening omelets at the Squeeze In (10060 Donner Pass Rd.; 587-9814).

Emigrant pedal. Break out the mountain bikes for a long but easy ride on the Commemorative Overland Emigrant Trail. Start at the Donner Camp Picnic Area on State 89 north of Truckee and head northeast; it's about 12 fairly level miles to picnicking at Stampede Reservoir. Paco's Truckee Bike & Ski (11200-6 Donner Pass Rd.; 587-5561) has maps, gear, and bike rentals for $18 per day.

Train town. Shop Truckee's Commercial Row; pick up a Historic Truckee Walking Tour map at the train station (10065 Donner Pass Rd.).

Table with a view. If it's a balmy evening, reserve an outside table at Cottonwood Restaurant & Bar (call for directions; 587-5711) just before sunset for views of mountain-backed Truckee.

sunday

Local rave. Head west early on Donner Pass Rd. to Donner Lake Kitchen (13710 Donner Pass Rd., behind Donner Pines Market; 587-3119), a local favorite.

Hike the loop. Continue west to the top of the pass, and turn left down the gravel road next to the Alpine Skills International building to parking for the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). The 4 1/2-mile Mt. Judah Loop Trail is a moderate hike that is one of the summit country's most spectacular. Take the PCT behind Sugar Bowl ski area south 2 1/2 miles to Roller Pass and the historic Overland Emigrant Trail. From here, backtrack and turn right on the Mt. Judah Loop Trail. Panoramic views from the rounded, 8,383-foot summit are the grand finale before you descend through a wildflower garden.