Paths of discovery - includes related article on path installation - garden trails

Sunset, July, 1999 by Jim McCausland

How to blaze a garden trail with style - and the right materials

Paths beckon. They invite you into a garden or through it, perhaps for a look at some fresh mallows that have unfurled near the birdbath or a sniff of the honeysuckle whose scent wafts from a sunny spot by the pond. They also give structure to the garden - and direction to its visitors. And when tufts of moss or creeping thyme grow between their pavers, paths urge you to slow down for a look underfoot. Paths will even eventually make themselves: You cut across the lawn to the mailbox, the Compost pile, or the gate enough times, and soon a path of flattened grass marks your trail.

Before that happens, map out circulation patterns in your garden and draw a plan - one that allows just enough twists and turns to reveal the garden slowly, area by area. A garden can do with a little mystery, which serpentine paths provide. The design ideas on these pages can spark inspiration.

Rules of the path

1. Choose the right materials. The most durable paths are designed for use in all weather conditions. That implies good drainage when it's wet, good traction when it's icy. Gravel and crushed rock are nearly perfect for this, as are loose-laid brick, pavers, and slightly crowned (higher in the center) paths made from textured concrete, brick, or stone.

Use solid paths (brick, concrete, pavers, or stone) for routes that you're likely to travel barefoot (the path from hot tub to house, for example), so you won't pick up dirt on wet feet. Use bark or gravel in places that call for a more natural look.

2. Make it wide enough. Main garden paths should be wide enough for two people to walk side by side; 5 feet is about right. Small subSidiary paths should be wide enough for a wheelbarrow (handles have a 24- to 30-inch spread). Two feet is a generous minimum, as long as plants don't crowd the edges.

Organize a network of paths like a river system, with smaller paths feeding into larger ones.

3. Add plants wherever possible. Allow at least 2 inches of soil between pavers, stones, or bricks in which to plant thyme or other low creepers. Amend the soil well so plants can establish roots; it should be light (on the sandy side) so it won't become packed down with foot traffic and kill the plants' roots.

Which path's for you?

Here's a quick guide to common path materials that can be loose-laid. Prices are approximate and do not include edging or base materials such as sand or gravel.

The easiest paths are laid over packed sand, or a combination of sand and gravel. More difficult to build are those set in concrete or mortar; such paths usually call for expert installation or guidance from a book like the Sunset Complete Patio Book (Sunset Publishing Co., Menlo Park, CA, 1998; $19.95).

Aggregate and concrete steppingstones. Textured concrete or aggregate steppingstones are attractive and have good traction in icy conditions. Cost is $7 per 16-inch-square paver, or $20 $35 per square yard if you butt them together.

Bark. Good choice for woodland gardens, since it has the look and feel of forest duff, but it must be renewed frequently. You can cover a square yard of path 3 inches deep for about $1.15 to $4.

Brick. High-fired all-weather bricks are a great choice for formal paths. Most are 4 by 8 inches, give or take 1/4 inch in either dimension. Enough brick to pave a square yard (about 40 bricks) costs $13 to $26.

Crushed rock. The irregular shapes of the crushed particles allow them to pack well, giving a firm surface that can easily support a wheelbarrow. Let crushed rock pack down by itself or rent a compactor (similar to a jackhammer, but with a flat foot) to do the job for you. Cost is about $1.40 to $2.25 to cover a square yard of path 3 inches deep.

Grass. Works best in combination with stone. Alone, use it in wide swaths that spread out traffic to prevent worn trails. The heavier the use, the more you'll need to fertilize and overseed to compensate. Costs less than a nickel for enough seed to sow a square yard of ground.

Gravel. Makes a fine natural surface. But because gravel particles ate round, it isn't great for heavily used paths; the particles shift as you walk on them. Most is sold in the 3/8- to 3/4-inch size; smaller grades are usually easier to walk on. Cost is $1.40 to $2.25 for enough gravel to cover a square yard of path 3 inches deep.

Pavers. Available in lots of beautiful patterns and textures. You can mix and match pavers of different colors and sizes. They cost $20 to $30 per square yard.

Stone (cut of irregular). Flagstones make wonderfully formal walks, while fiat fieldstones work best in informal steppingstone paths. Cost is $30 to $100 per square yard.

Install this path in a day

Before building a path, you need to prepare the site. Concrete, aggregate, bark, gravel, and stones can be set directly on stable soil; paths of other materials need a base. Sand is a good choice, but be careful. It can wash out from under pavers and bricks, making them settle unevenly, especially in rainy areas. To prevent washout, layer sand over a 2-inch gravel base.