Fiesta barbecue rancho-style - includes recipes - California hacienda cookery - Cover Story

Sunset, July, 1999 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

A San Diego buffet that grows as your party does

When Elena Cota, a 78-year-old San Diego native, welcomes you to her table, it's a bountiful experience reminiscent of legendary early-California hacienda hospitality. She describes her entertaining style as California rancho. The description fits. It's an imaginative blend of Mexican heritage, from her mentor-mother, with the multiethnic influences and rich ingredient resources that are a vital aspect of her community. Cota, an energetic cooking instructor and home economist, shifts from small to large parties easily. The barbecue gives her flexibility. She may grill one or several entrees - beef, pork, poultry, seafood - on one or more barbecues. She rounds out the buffet with appetizers, salsas, salads, and vegetable dishes, some of which also cook on the grill. Guests often tuck custom combinations into warm tortillas.

If Cota expects a mere 8 to 10 guests, the lead menu on page 100 comes into play As the party grows, she adds more main dishes and flavorful companions. The second and third tiers of the menu show how she combines the 22 recipes that follow to create a lively balance for gatherings of as many as 30. Thinking bigger? Make dishes in multiple proportions.

Cota shops in San Diego's Barrio Logan, a long-established neighborhood, for Mexican foods. However, most of the ingredients are readily found in well-stocked supermarkets. For authentic buy-and-serve desserts and beverages, shop at Latino markets.

Guacamole

PREP TIME: About 5 minutes

NOTES: If making up to 4 hours ahead, cover and chill.

MAKES: About 2 1/2 cups

1 1/2 pounds firm-ripe to ripe avocados

1/3 to 1/2 cup salsa verde, salsa cruda, or salsa de tomatillo (recipes on pages 106 and 108) or prepared tomatillo salsa

3 to 4 tablespoons lemon juice

Salt and pepper

Peel and pit avocados. Coarsely mash with a fork or beat with a mixer. Add salsa, lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste.

Per tablespoon: 21 cal., 81% (17 cal.) from fat; 0.3 g protein; 1.9 g fat (0.3 g sat.); 1.1 g carbo (0.3 g fiber); 1.5 mg sodium;. 0 mg chol.

Josefinas (Toast with Chili Cheese)

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 15 minutes

NOTES: Serve this chili- and cheese-topped toast as an appetizer or a bread.

MAKES: 8 to 10 appetizer servings

1 slender baguette (1/2 lb.)

1 cup (1/4 lb.) shredded jack cheese

2 cans (4 oz. each) diced green chilies

1/2 cup minced sweet onion (such as Maul or Walla Walla)

1/2 cup sour cream

3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

About 1/4 teaspoon paprika

1. Cut baguette in half horizontally.

2. In a bowl, mix shredded cheese, chilies, onion, sour cream, garlic, and 1/4 teaspoon paprika.

3. Spread mixture evenly over cut sides of baguette; dust lightly with more paprika. Set, cheese mixture up, on a 14- by 17-inch baking sheet.

4. Broil 4 inches from heat until topping is puffy and lightly browned, about 6 minutes. For appetizers, cut into 1 1/4- to 1 1/2-inch-long pieces; to serve as a bread, cut into 3- to 4-inch sections. Serve warm.

Per serving: 140 Cal., 42% (59 cal.) from fat; 5.5 g protein; 6.6 g fat (3.6 g sat.); 15 g carbo (1 g fiber); 345 mg sodium; 17 mg chol.

Jalapenos en Escabeche (Pickled Chilies)

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes

NOTES: If making these pickled chilies up to 2 months ahead, cover and chill. Or buy canned jalapenos en escabeche.

MAKES: 8 to 10 servings

1 pound fresh jalapeno chilies

2 carrots (6 oz. total)

1 onion (6 oz.) 2 cups distilled vinegar

1/2 cup salad oil (or 1/4 cup each salad oil and olive oil)

3 or 4 garlic cloves, peeled

1 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled

1 dried bay leaf

Salt and pepper

1. Rinse jalapenos and pierce each with a fork. Peel carrots and cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices. Peel onion and cut vertically into 1/4-inch slivers.

2. In a 3- to 4-quart pan over high heat, combine jalapenos, carrots, onion, 2 cups water, vinegar, oil, garlic, oregano, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil.

3. Reduce heat and simmer just until carrots are tender-crisp when pierced, 5 to 8 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.

4. Pour into jars, cover, and refrigerate at least 1 day. Use a slotted spoon to serve.

Per serving: 130 cal., 76% (99 cal.) from fat; 1 g protein; 11 g fat (1.4 g sat.); 8.8 g carbo (1.2 g fiber); 8.7 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

salads

Tomato Cucumber Salad with Panela Cheese

PREP TIME: About 10 minutes

NOTES: Panela, a mild Mexican-style cheese that tastes much like fresh mozzarella, is available in well-stocked supermarkets and Latino food markets. Use fresh mozzarella as an alternative.

MAKES: 8 to 10 servings

3 firm-ripe tomatoes (6 oz. each), rinsed, cored, and sliced

1 cucumber (1/2 lb.), peeled and thinly sliced

3/4 pound panela cheese, thinly sliced

1/4 cup lime juice

2 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and pepper

1. Arrange tomatoes, cucumber, and cheese on a platter.

2. Mix lime juice and oil; ,pour evenly over salad. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 133 cal., 81% (108 cal.) from fat; 6.5 g protein; 12 g fat (6.4 g sat.); 3.1 g carbo (0.8 g fiber); 222 mg sodium; 12 mg chol.