In a Vancouver Island garden - includes recipes - menu of barbecued lamb, fragrant herbs and blueberries

Sunset, July, 1999 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

Barbecued lamb, fragrant herbs, and blueberries make a party menu

Fresh herbs perfume every course of this leisurely meal, and it's not by happenstance. The menu's creator, cookbook author Noel Richardson, lives on a 10-acre herb farm on sunny Vancouver Island in British Columbia. Inspiration grows all around her. "We eat out of our garden year-round," she explains.

Richardson's husband, Andrew Yeoman, a writer and the head gardener at their Ravenhill Herb Farm, supplies the just-picked herbs and a delectable assortment of vegetables. Daughter Jenny Cameron, chef and food stylist, lends a hand with the cooking. Collectively they presented this garden party for eight to celebrate the glories of their island in summer.

The party is easy to duplicate in spirit and detail elsewhere in the West. You can purchase fresh ingredients at a well-stocked supermarket, but a farmers' or specialty produce market will offer more variety. Richardson bakes her own bread, decorating the surface of the dough with fresh herbs. You can do the same or purchase plain or herb-flavor crusty French bread. To emphasize the regional richness of the area, the family serves locally produced wine, but the same varietals from other areas are suitable.

Richardson's most recent book, In a Country Garden: Life at Ravenhill Farm (Graphic Arts Center Publishing, Portland, 1996; $12.95; 800/452-3032), offers more inspiration from the land.

Tapenade with Basil

PREP TIME: About 20 minutes

NOTES: If making up to 1 week ahead, chill airtight. Spread tapenade onto crusty bread to serve as an appetizer.

MAKES: About 1 1/4 cups

1 cup calamata olives

3 cloves garlic, peeled

1 can (2 oz.) anchovy fillets, drained and rinsed

3/4 cup chopped fresh bash leaves

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Pit olives. In a food processor, whirl Olives, garlic, anchovies, and basil until finely chopped. Add olive oil and whirl until smooth. (Or with a knife, mince olives, garlic, anchovies, and basil; mix with oil.)

Per tablespoon: 74 cal., 91% (67 cal.) from fat; 0.8 g protein; 7.4 g fat (1 g sat.); 1.2 g carbo (0.1 g fiber); 204 mg sodium; 1.2 mg chol. Roasted Garlic with Rosemary

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour

NOTES: Up to 4 hours ahead, bake garlic. For an appetizer, spoon garlic onto thin baguette slices. For a condiment, present with the main part of the meal.

MAKES: 8 servings

3 heads garlic (about 9 oz. total)

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons dry wine (red or white)

1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary leaves or crumbled dried rosemary

Salt and pepper

1. Peel garlic and put cloves in a 6- to 8-inch-wide pan.

2. Add oil, balsamic vinegar, wine, and rosemary; mix.

3. Cover and bake in a 400 [degrees] oven 25 minutes. Uncover and continue to bake until garlic is light gold and soft to touch, 10 to 15 minutes longer.

4. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

Per serving: 105 cal., 61% (64 cal.) from fat; 1.8 g protein; 7.1 g fat (1 g sat.); 9.4 g carbo (0.6 g fiber); 5.1 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Tomato Cucumber Salad

PREP TIME: About 30 minutes

NOTES: Up to 1 hour ahead, assemble salad. Add dressing when serving. Buy. nasturtium flowers and leaves, grown for eating, in the produce section. Or, if you grow nasturtiums without chemicals or pesticides in your own garden, you can pick and use them.

MAKES: 8 servings

1/2 pound English or lemon cucumber, rinsed

6 firm-ripe tomatoes (1/2 lb. total), rinsed and cored

Tender nasturtium lettuce leaves, rinsed and drained Nasturtium vinaigrette (recipe follows)

Dill sprigs (optional), rinsed

8 nasturtium sprigs and flowers, or watercress sprigs, rinsed and drained Salt and pepper

1. Slice cucumber and tomatoes into 1/4-inch-thick rounds.

2. Line a platter with nasturtium leaves. Arrange sliced tomatoes and cucumbers on leaves.

3. Drizzle salad with vinaigrette. Garnish with dill and nasturtium sprigs or flowers. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 151 cal., 83% (126 cal.) from fat; 1.7 g protein; 14 g fat (1.3 g sat.); 6.1 g carbo (2.1 g fiber); 54 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Nasturtium Vinaigrette

PREP TIME: About 10 minutes

NOTES: Up to 30 minutes ahead, make dressing.

MAKES: About 1 cup

1/4 cup lemon juice

1/4 cup thinly sliced chives or chopped green onions

2 tablespoons finely chopped nasturtium flowers or watercress

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1/2 cup salad or extra-virgin olive oil

In a bowl, mix lemon juice, chives, nasturtiums, and mustard. Add oil, whisking to blend.

Per tablespoon: 62 cal., 98% (61 cal.) from fat; 0 g protein; 6.8 g fat (0.6 g sat.); 0.3 g carbo (0 g fiber); 23 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Barbecued Lamb with Cilantro

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour

NOTES: Up to 1 day ahead, marinate lamb.

MAKES: 8 servings

2 cups dry red wine

3/4 cup soy sauce 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

1 1/2 cups chopped fresh cilantro

2 fresh or dried bay leaves

1 leg of lamb (6 lb.), boned, butterflied, and fat-trimmed

Cilantro sprigs

Salt and pepper

1. In a 9- by 13-inch baking dish, mix wine, soy sauce, oil, garlic, chopped cilantro, and bay leaves. Spread lamb open in the marinade and turn to coat. Cover and chill, turning meat occasionally, at least 4 hours or up to 1 day.