New take on tuna and noodles - includes recipes

Sunset, July, 1999 by Barbara Goldman

Fresh tuna with noodles is as far removed from the cliched canned-tuna casserole as oysters on the half-shell are from fish and chips. And the fresh fish dish can be just as quick and easy. Varying the noodle foundation makes it a perennial adventure. Fresh, thick Asian-style noodles, kimchi, and litchi ice cream are available at Asian food markets and in many well-stocked supermarkets.

Pan-Grilled Tuna Steaks

PREP AND COOK TIME: 5 to 10 minutes

NOTES: Start the noodles (recipes follow), and as they cook, prepare the fish. For moist texture, serve the tuna with a red interior. If you don't want it red, cover browned fish in pan (step 2), remove from heat, and let stand until gray-white in the center (cut to test).

MAKES: 4 servings

1 1/4 pounds tuna (ahi), cut 1 inch thick, rinsed and patted dry

Noodle mixture (see notes)

2 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce

2 teaspoons Asian (toasted) sesame oil

1. Cut tuna into 4 equal pieces.

2. Place a 10- to 12-inch nonstick frying pan over high heat. When pan is hot, add tuna and cook on each side, turning once, until browned on the surface, gray to about 1/4 inch in, and still red in the center (cut to test), 4 to 5 minutes total.

3. Spoon noodle mixture equally onto plates and top with tuna. Mix soy sauce and sesame oil, then drizzle over tuna to taste.

Per serving tuna: 178 cal., 18% (32 cal.) from fat; 34 g protein; 3.6 g fat (0.7 g sat.); 0.8 g carbo (0 g fiber); 352 mg sodium; 64 mg chol.

The noodles

Chinese noodles with shiitakes. In a 10- to 12-inch nonstick frying pan over high heat, stir 1/2 pound stemmed, rinsed, drained, and sliced fresh shiitake mushrooms, 1/2 cup chopped onion, and 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger until onion is limp, about 5 minutes. Add 2 cups fat-skimmed chicken broth, 2 cups water, and 1 pound rinsed and drained fresh Chinese, Shanghai-style, or udon noodles (about 1/4 in. thick). Bring to a boil and stir occasionally until noodles are barely tender to bite, 6 to 7 minutes. Meanwhile, rinse, stem, and string 1/2 pound Chinese pea pods. Add to pan, stir, and cook 1 minute more. Stir in 1/3 cup prepared oyster sauce and 2 teaspoons Asian (toasted) sesame oil. PREP AND COOK TIME: About 25 minutes.

Per serving: 436 cal., 11% (46 cal.) from fat; 22 g protein; 5.1 g fat (0.7 g sat.); 75 g carbo (4.8 g fiber); 1,013 mg sodium; 83 mg chol.

Buckwheat noodles with macadamias. In a 10- to 12-inch nonstick frying pan over high heat, frequently stir 1/3 cup coarsely chopped roasted, salted macadamia nuts until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Pour from pan; set aside. In same pan over high heat, bring 1 1/2 cups fat-skimmed chicken broth and 2 cups water to a boil. Add 1/2 pound dried buckwheat noodles (soba) and cook until just tender to bite, 6 to 7 minutes. Stir in 3 tablespoons lime juice, 1/3 cup thinly sliced green onions, and 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro. Sprinkle each serving with macadamias and garnish with cilantro sprigs and lime wedges. PREP AND COOK TIME: About 20 minutes.

Per serving: 287 cal., 27% (77 cal.) from fat; 12 g protein; 8.6 g fat (1.3 g sat.); 45 g carbo (2.7 g fiber); 529 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Spinach noodles provencal. In a 10- to 12-inch nonstick frying pan over high heat, stir 1 tablespoon olive oil, 6 minced drained anchovy fillets, 3 minced cloves garlic, and 1 cup sliced onion until onion is limp, about 5 minutes. Stir in 1 can (28 oz.) diced tomatoes with juice, 2 cups water, 1/2 pound dried spinach noodles, 1/2 cup chopped pitted calamata olives, and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves. Stir occasionally until noodles are just tender to bite, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in 1/4 cup chopped parsley. PREP AND COOK TIME: About 25 minutes.

Per serving: 364 cal., 24% (89 cal.) from fat; 12 g protein; 9.9 g fat (1.4 g sat.); 58 g carbo (8.5 g fiber); 871 mg sodium; 3.3 mg chol.