3-Day Weekend - restoration on Highway 101 in San Diego County, California; highlights - Brief Article

Sunset, Jan, 2000 by Peter Jensen

Rediscovering San Diego's north coast

* Not so long ago, U.S. 101 was the only way to drive from Los Angeles south to San Diego. Poking along the coast, it linked a string of beach-hugging towns with names that reflected their don't-pass-us-by dreams: Oceanside, Cardiff-by-the-Sea, Del Mar. Motels, cafes, and gas stations prospered because traffic flowed as dependably as the tides.

Then, in the mid-1960s, it all stopped when the flood of travelers drained onto new Interstate 5. The once-vibrant beach towns became backwaters with a flotsam of struggling T-shirt shops, musty antiques emporiums, and dinky little eateries that seemed to have more surfboards parked outside than cars.

And the 101 moniker itself? It quickly disappeared, replaced by other street names, which vary by town.

Now 101 is back. Unofficially, but proudly. New road signs proclaiming "Historic Route 101" are up all along San Diego County's north coast, which begins at Oceanside and stretches southward 20 miles to Del Mar. A strong economy and the opening of Legoland California east of I-5 in Carlsbad, coupled with explosive growth, have brought a surging new tide of interesting restaurants and shops.

The best part is that neglected, old U.S. 101 hasn't been strip-malled into that bland Southern California sameness. Funk still holds sway, especially in parts of Oceanside and Leucadia. Beaches remain this coast's best attraction of all, and in most neighborhoods, narrow walks and cliff-hanger steps lead you to the area's ultimate reward: some of the best swimming and take-a-long-walk beaches in Southern California. And winter is pretty much a blue-sky time of year on this coast, which is plagued by fog through much of the summer.

The old cafes are still local favorites, but now it's also possible to watch a dusky red sunset filtered through a mellow golden Chardonnay at several very good restaurants. As lodging options improve, something strange is starting to happen along this coast: Many travelers aren't making it to San Diego at all.

friday

Hash house. Pay homage to good road food at 101 Cafe (631 S. Coast Hwy.; 760/722-5220) in Oceanside. The hash slinger here turns out perfectly crisp hash browns and other simple wonders hot from the grill.

Hang 10. Giant wood surfboards and exhibits about California pioneer surfers from the `20s, '30s, and '40s line the walls at the California Surf Museum (10--4 Wed-Mon; free; 223 N. Coast Hwy.; 760/721-6876 or www.surfmuseum.org).

Local art. Housed in a building designed by noted early-20th-century modernist Irving Gill, Oceanside Museum of Art (10--4 Tue-Sat, 1--4 Sun; $3, $2 ages 65 and over, military, and students with ID; 704 Pier View Way; 760/721-2787) showcases the work of regional talent.

Down the coast. Stop in at Buena Vista Audubon Nature Center (10--4 Tue-Sat, 1--4 Sun; free; 2202 S. Coast Hwy.; 760/439-2473) at the south end of Oceanside to watch waterfowl in a breezy marsh.

Antiquing in Carlsbad. Downtown Carlsbad, near Carlsbad Village Drive and State Street, is an appealingly walkable trove of antiques malls, shops, and restaurants.

Home-cookin'. Fulano's Cafe (145 Leucadia Blvd., Leucadia; 760/753-1711) offers excellent Mexican soups and tasty fresh entrees that are the antithesis of your typical combination-plate fare.

saturday

Eye-opener. Breakfast on wonderful baked goods under patio pepper trees at Cafe Zinc in Solana Beach (132 S. Cedros Ave.; 858/793-5436).

Shops, galleries, blossoms. Wander the Cedros Design District along Cedros Avenue south from Lomas Santa Fe Drive. Go at least as far as Cedros Trading Company (307 S. Cedros Ave.; 858/794-9016), an old warehouse/garage full of design imports. Explore the blooms and gifts at Cedros Gardens (330 S. Cedros Ave.; 858/792-8640).

Up the coast. Put the top down, turn the radio up, and cruise through Cardiff and the eucalyptus-lined main drag of U.S. 101 through Leucadia and Encinitas, where funky Lou's Records (434 N. Coast Hwy.; 760/753-1382) is known for its eclectic stock of new and used recordings.

Waveside dining. Catch an early dinner at Jake's Del Mar (1660 Coast Blvd., Del Mar; 858/755-2002) to avoid the crowds that line up for creatively prepared seafood only steps from the sand. Return to Cedros for headliner rock 'n' roll and blues acts at the Belly Up Tavern (143 S. Cedros Ave.; 858/481-8140).

Early-morning hike. Rare pines thrive along the Guy Fleming Trail on the highest of San Diego oceanfront bluffs at Torrey Pines State Reserve (8-sunset; 858/755-2063) near the south edge of Del Mar.

sunday

Late-morning coffee. Savor a late breakfast or lunch on a pleasant patio at one of Del Mar's off-the-main-drag outdoor cafes: Stratford Court Cafe (1307 Stratford Court; 858/792-7433), Pacifica Breeze Cafe (Del Mar Plaza; 509-9147), and Sbicca (215 15th St.; 481-1001).

Serious shopping. Start at Del Mar Plaza (15th St. at Camino del Mar), which rests against a hillside, then prowl the appealing mix of shops and a bookstore south along Camino del Mar for at least several blocks around the spiffy home furnishings atelier named Country Downs (1302 Camino del Mar; 858/481-1356).