The Best of the Colorado Rockies

Sunset, July, 2000 by Hal Clifford

SCENIC DRIVES

Cache la Poudre. This river canyon, stretching between Cameron Pass and Fort Collins, provides a natural break in the Front Range. Named by Frenchspeaking trappers--who, storing barrels of gunpowder here in the 1830s, called the river "hide the powder"--the Cache la Poudre is now designated a National Wild and Scenic River.

State 14 follows the river canyon for about 70 miles as it winds from the mountain mahogany ecosystem of the foothills to lodgepole pine at 10,276-foot Cameron Pass. Immediately south of the pass are the Nokhu Crags, dramatic exclamation points at the tip of the Never Summer Mountains. From the pass, the highway continues 31 miles to the hamlet of Walden. For road conditions, camping, and river recreation, call Canyon Lakes Ranger District at (970) 498-2770.

Crystal Valley and McClure Pass. Their hearts set on Aspen, many travelers turn east at Carbondale and ignore the wonders that are due south. Here State 133 parallels the Crystal River on its way to Redstone, one of Colorado's most engaging small towns. Founded in the 1880s by coal baron John Osgood, Redstone is now a lively summer arts center. From here, the highway climbs up over 8,755-foot McClure Pass--where you'll get great views of Chair Mountain, Ragged Peak, and Ragged Mountain--before dropping down toward the towns of Paonia and Hotchkiss. One-way distance between Carbondale and Hotchkiss? About 70 miles. Number of eye-popping views? Infinite. For information contact the Carbondale Chamber of Commerce at (970) 963-1890 or visit www.redstonecolorado.com.

Independence Pass. Running from Twin Lakes to Aspen, State 82 was the original path to the mining camp at Aspen. The 40-mile route to what is today a glitzy resort town is open (weather permitting) from Memorial Day weekend until late October. The road cuts beneath the shoulder of Mt. Elbert through groves of aspen trees, then follows precipitous switchbacks blasted out of a hillside to Independence Pass at 12,095 feet. The descent into the Roaring Fork Valley wanders through glacier-carved outcrops, and past the ghost town of Independence. This drive is not for acrophobes, and vehicles longer than 35 feet are prohibited.

Best dining

Baker, Andrew

The Colorado Rockies' finest chefs know how to use local ingredients to best advantage. Trout, lamb, and game have star billing on menus, often paired with other regional ingredients, from dried berries to locally produced goat cheese. Several of the restaurants on our list offer such high-end cuisine, while others specialize in simpler dishes that are ideal for families or travelers hungry for quick, inexpensive meals.

B/L/D: Breakfast/Lunch/Dinner

Average dinner entree prices: $ = less than $10, $$ = between $10 and $20, $$$ = more than $20

* ASPEN Big Wrap. Way-better-than-average wraps and smoothies at wallet-friendly prices. 520 E. Durant Ave.; (970) 544-1700. L, $

Popcorn Wagon. Not everything in Aspen boasts a five-figure price tag. Locals know the Popcorn Wagon--tethered here for decades--as the best place to grab a cheap hot dog, cr[hat{e}]pe, gyro, or soft drink. 305 S. Mill St.; (970) 925-2718. L/D, $