Seeking sanctuary

Sunset, Jan, 2001 by Lisa Taggart

After the hectic holidays, retreat to simplicity, serenity, and scenery

The fresh start of a new year is often time to reflect on priorities and values. But hopping from holiday party to shopping mall to holiday party--or from cell phone to laptop to traffic jam--can keep you too preoccupied to contemplate what's truly important. If the holidays have left you longing to reconnect with yourself, one of these retreat centers can offer sanctuary.

"I was looking for a safe place where I could be alone and think," explained one New Zealand visitor when asked why she chose to spend a week in contemplation at San Francisco Zen Center's Green Gulch Farm in Mann County rather than touring San Francisco. "It was the most relaxing vacation."

While each of the centers listed here originates in a particular spiritual community, our anonymous overnight visits confirmed that none requires guests to participate in any religious service, class, or program. If interested, you can ask about joining classes and prayer sessions. But it's also fine to just enjoy the quiet and the stunning natural settings. When making reservations, explain that you want a personal retreat.

One bonus is that most are also low-cost getaways--these start as low as $40 per night and generally include simple meals. What you get is the basics: a roof, a bed, and a desk; you may even be asked to clean up your room before leaving. A few retreats require guests to follow certain community rules, such as observing periods of silence.

Some people may find the lack of a mint on their pillow intolerable, but others will find that the simplicity of uncluttered surroundings can lead to new--and unexpected--rewards: relaxed inspiration during a soak in a meadowside natural hot springs, clarity of mind while meditating in silence among the saguaros, or a restored spirit after listening to monks sing the canonical hours. You may even discover the true luxury of peace.

Arizona

* TUCSON:

Desert House of Prayer.

Owned by the Redemptorists, a community of Catholic priests and brothers, the chapel and surrounding buildings are blessed with a spectacular location neighboring Saguaro National Monument north of Tucson; trails lead into the monument from Desert House. The center is quiet--talking is permitted only during dinner from Saturday through Thursday After spending 24 hours in silence, hearing a Mozart concerto played in the lounge is exquisite. The community building's library is well stocked with natural histories, fiction, and religious texts. Visitors can attend daily mass, held in the small chapel, and a weekly peace-and-justice forum. The Stations of the Cross Trail is marked by wood crosses that have a distinct resemblance to the 30-foot-tall saguaros. The humble motel-style rooms (single only) have private baths and offer divine views. Meals are hearty and homey From $40 per person, including meals. 7350 W Picture Rocks Rd.; (520) 744-3825.

California

* MUIR BEACH:

San Francisco Zen Center's Green Gulch Farm.

A wood gong calls black-robed Zen Buddhist residents to daily meditation in the redwood zendo. An introductory meditation class is offered every Sunday morning. Or skip the introspection and stroll down to the gorgeous organic flower and vegetable gardens, which include a formal Victorian flower garden and meditative peace garden. The trail continues down to Muir Beach or branches up a ridgetop for spectacular views. Excellent organic vegetarian meals (many ingredients are grown on-site) and snacks are available all day The hand-built octagonal guest house has 12 simple rooms with platform beds and desks, plus balconies or patios; rooms can accommodate one or two people. Quiet is encouraged in the guest house. Visitors can join Sunday morning meditation classes, including a meditation period and lectures that end just before lunch at 12:45. From $75 per person, including meals. 1601 Shoreline Hwy; (415) 383-3134.

* SANTA BARBARA:

Mount Calvary Monastery and Retreat House.

Here on a ridge 1,250 feet above Santa Barbara in the Santa Ynez Mountains, the outside world is reduced to sage breeze and cricket hum. Chanted prayers ring off the cool adobe walls of the church, and a dark-wood library perfect for browsing holds a Mark Twain first edition. Tranquillity can also be found on nearby hiking trails in the Los Padres National Forest. Silence is observed from 8:30 P.M. through breakfast, but the Benedictine monks aren't without humor: "You don't have to be celibate to like monks," reads a sign. Simple rooms--both singles (with shared bathrooms) and doubles (private baths)--house 30 guests. $70 per person, including meals. 2500 Gibralter Rd.; (805) 962-9855, ext. 10, or www. mount-calvary. org.

Ken McAlpine

* WATSONVILLE:

Mount Madonna Center.

Located on 355 acres of Mt. Madonna above Monterey Bay the 22-year-old center emphasizes the spirituality of ashtanga yoga. The community, which includes about 60 residents and a private school, offers yoga classes, some with the group's founder and spiritual leader, Baba Han Dass. The center's new motel-like facilities are luxurious for the price. Tasty vegetarian meals are served in the community building; the dining area has spectacular views of the Monterey Bay The Kaya Kalpa Weliness Center offers ayurvedic massage and a hot tub; trails around the property provide quiet hiking in redwood and oak woodland forests. Morning yoga classes Mon-Wed, Fri-Sat. Dorm beds from $45, private rooms from $58 per person (from $66 per person with private baths); two meals and lunchtime snack are included (no dinner Sun). 445 Summit Rd.; (408) 847-0406 or www.mountmadonna.org