3-Day Weekend - vacation and recreation in Idaho

Sunset, July, 2001 by Jeff Phillips

Sun Valley summer

Want gorgeous scenery, great shopping--and sushi too? Head to Idaho

* "The thing that most people don't understand about Ketchum and Sun Valley--the thing that makes this town so attractive--is that it really is someplace in the middle of nowhere," says Sharon Egan as we cruise along the Big Wood River. It's a balmy summer evening, the top on her old Italian sports car is down, and even now, as a large moon rises over the rugged Pioneer Mountains, essences of sun-warmed pine and sage linger in the air.

Two nights earlier on this same stretch of road, Egan--a longtime resident of Ketchum--was forced to stop her car while a big black bear took its time ambling across the macadam. We see no bear this evening and continue on to dinner in the old central Idaho mining town that Ernest Hemingway helped make famous two generations ago.

Ketchum and the adjacent ski and summer resort of Sun Valley have certainly changed since Papa's era, when he played then-legal slots at the Casino (built in 1925 and stilt a lively bar favored by locals) and drank with Gary Cooper at the Club Rio (now a parking lot). These days, the old town has top-notch restaurants, more than a dozen art galleries, and, in one of the downtown's last historic brick buildings, a Starbucks--the chain's CEO owns a place here.

What hasn't changed much since Hemingway's day is the spectacular country surrounding Ketchum. Sitting at the head of a long valley drained by the Big Wood River, the town is hemmed in by mountains that offer world-class skiing in winter and, in summer, give visitors countless opportunities for hiking, biking, and fishing for wily trout.

"Gorgeous country and access to a variety of outdoor recreation is the real reason why most of us who aren't rich or famous live here," says Egan. "Of course, the fact that our little town has not one, but two, sushi bars certainly doesn't hurt."

Area code is 208 unless noted.

friday

View from the top. Ride the Sun Valley chairlift (from $15; 800/635-4150) to the top of Bald Mountain for views and wildflowers, which peak in July. Hike down winding trails or, if you take a mountain bike up, blast down--gorgeous Warm Springs Trail is fun for novice bikers (stop for the view at Little America Point).

Trail grub. A trip to Atkinsons' Market (corner of East and Fourth Streets; 726-5668) is a Ketchum adventure. This upscale market is where celebrity homeowners shop and has everything--from cornichons to Cabernet--to fill your picnic basket.

Where's Papa? Ketchum wasn't always trendy. The Ketchum Sun/Valley Heritage and Ski Museum (First St. at Washington Ave.; 726-8118), puts the past in perspective with its small exhibits on Hemingway (about all you'll find on the town's most famous resident), skiing, and the old mining days.

American beauty. Yankee pot roast and local trout are American standards served on an evergreen-screened patio at Chandler's Restaurant (200 S. Main St.; 726-1776).

saturday

Start hearty. Outfitters, guides, and other serious morning people dig into eggs or great oatmeal at Esta (180 S. Main; 726-1668).

Llama walk. Kids love leading gentle llamas on an easy hike to a mountain lake where veteran outfitters Dave Markham and Sue Barney of Venture Outdoors ($85 includes transport from Sun Valley, lunch, and llamas for toting your gear; 800/528-5262) spread a tasty lunch.

Hiking on your own. There are many great hiking options within a few miles of Ketchum. Stop at the Sawtooth National Recreation Area Visitor Center (9 miles north of town on State 75; 727-5013) for information.

Something light. Simple, fresh salads, sandwiches, a quiche du jour--Sun Valley Wine Co. (360 N. Leadville Ave.; 726-2442) also serves interesting wines by the glass.

Shopping. Browsing sophisticated shops can easily fill a day. Standouts include Davis (closed Sun., 320 N. Leadville; 725-0180) for stylish housewares, Davies/Reid (closed Sun., 131 First Ave. N; 726-3453) for Asian antiques and furniture, Anne Reed Gallery (391 First Ave. N; 726-3036; pick up a gallery guide here), and Jan Wilson Gallery (320 First Ave. N; 622-7799).

Going global. In a sushi mood? Sushi on Second (260 Second St.; 726-5181) will satisfy your craving. Reasonably priced and casual, Globus (Sixth and Main Streets; 726-1301) satisfyingly blends elements of various Asian cuisines; graze on appetizers out on the deck.

Evening serenade. Several summer music festivals, including the Sun Valley Center for the Arts Twilight Concert Series (726-9491) and Sun Valley Summer Symphony (622-5607), bring great performances to the mountains.

sunday

Lazy breakfast. Cristina's Restaurant (520 Second St. E; 726-4499) is small, but it's worth the wait for Cristina's cream-filled cornetti (pastries that are part brioche, part croissant).

Gone fishin'. There's good fly-fishing all along the Big Wood River and world-class fishing at nearby Silver Greek. Stop at Silver Creek Outfitters (500 N. Main; 726-5282) for maps, licenses, tackle, and guides.