Quick comforts - From the editor

Sunset, Jan, 2002

Katie Tamony

* Considering that my idea of quick comfort food is a bologna sandwich, it's a good thing our Quick, Light & Healthy section for this issue was created by true food professionals. Senior food editor Sara Schneider says the idea for our updated cozy classics was born last year, when she noticed many upscale restaurants around the West were putting cassoulet and coq au yin back on their menus. Even mac 'n' cheese has gained new dignity. "We thought readers would appreciate having a lighter weeknight version of these old favorites," says Sara.

All the talk of classic comfort foods around the office had me wondering what sort of dishes our creative staff would call their personal "soul foods." Their list made my mouth water.

From Linda Lau Anusasananan: "Nothing is more comforting than a steaming bowl of soup--I love gingery broth with mustard greens or spinach and bits of ground pork. Add spoonfuls of hot cooked rice to the soup as you eat it."

From Charity Ferreira: "Ricotta cheese makes an instant creamy sauce for pasta, and it's even better with a few pungent things like capers or olives thrown in."

And, finally, Sara discloses: "When times get tough, I make creamed eggs on toast, just like my mother did." Its sauce inspired the lightened version of shrimp Newburg in this issue. Speaking as someone who tried it in our test kitchens, I highly recommend it.

It might even beat a bologna sandwich.

KATIE TAMONY