Wild thing: rugged and untamed, affordable and uncrowded, Glacier National Park is full of surprise

Sunset, July, 2002 by Lora J. Finnegan

Backcountry chalets. Granite Park Chalet (from $72 per person; 800/521-7238 or www.glacierguides.com). Sperry Chalet (from $250; 888/345-2649 or www.sperrychalet.com). Ride horseback to Sperry Chalet with Mule Shoe Outfitters (406/888-5121).

Motel-like accommodations.

Rising Sun Motor Inn (from $90; 406/892-2525). Swift Current Motor Inn (from $43; 406/892-2525).

Outside of the park. In West Glacier, there's the handsomely restored 1910 Belton Chalet (from $110; 888/235-8665 or www.beltonchalet.com). Off U.S. 2 is the charming railroad-themed Izaak Walton Inn (from $108; 406/888-5700), with rooms and cabooses. On the east side, in St. Mary Valley, the Resort at Glacier has the new 48-room Great Bear Lodge (from $75; 800/368-3689 or www.glcpark.com), plus other lodge rooms and cabins.

TRANSPORTATION

Boat trips. Narrated cruises are a great way to see Lake McDonald, Swiftcurrent Lake at Many Glacier, and St. Mary Lake. Canoes and rowboats are also available for rent. For details, contact the Glacier Park Boat Company (406/257-2426 or www.montanaweb.com/gpboats).

Red bus tours. Either modern vans or the historic red buses themselves will run daily throughout the park from Glacier Park Lodge, Many Glacier Hotel, and Lake McDonald Lodge. They'll offer shuttle transportation and tours, from a hikers' express bus ($8) to a 142-mile Circle Tour ($63.90). Reservations are a good idea for these popular tours. Sign up ahead or as soon as you reach the park (406/892-2525 or www.glacierparkinc.com).

Train. The Empire Builder, operated by Amtrak (800/872-7245 or www.amtrak.com), runs between Seattle and Chicago daily to the park, stopping at Whitefish, west of the park, at the park's doorstep at West Glacier, and East Glacier. From Seat-tie, it's an overnight trip to Glacier. The coach fare is as low as $112; a sleeper is a little more expensive (from $286 for a standard bedroom to $527 for a deluxe bedroom), but includes meals.