Cream rises to the top: local producers bring creme fraicheFrench-style sour cream-to the market - Food Guide - Brief Article - Recipe

Creme fraiche seems ubiquitous in restaurants these days: dolloped on berries, swirled into soups, and even whisked into salad dressings. Until recently, creme fraiche was available only in pricey little cartons imported from France. Now, several California companies are making high-quality creme fraiche, and it's turning up in more grocers' cases.

What's all the fuss about? Slightly misnamed, creme fraiche is not in fact fresh but rather cultured, like sour cream. It's silky smooth and, because of its higher fat content, doesn't break or curdle when heated, making it a perfect base for sauces. Its gentle tang also complements sweets beautifully; use it instead of cream in dark chocolate ganache or whip it and spoon it over cake. Creme fraiche is best displayed simply, as in this rich but refreshing cucumber soup.

Kate Washington

Creamy Cucumber Soup

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 45 minutes, plus at least 2 hours to chill

NOTES: This elegant soup comes from chef Kurt Alldredge of the Vintage Room at Fess Parker's Wine Country Inn & Spa in Los Olivos, California.

MAKES: 4 first-course servings

     About 2 1/2 cups fat-skimmed
     chicken broth or vegetable broth
  1  pound White Rose or Yukon
     Gold potatoes, peeled and cut
     into 1-inch chunks
  1  cup thinly sliced onion (4 oz.)
  1  cup thickly sliced celery (about
     2 stalks; 5 oz.)
1/4  cup coarsely chopped parsley
  1  green onion, rinsed, ends
     trimmed, coarsely chopped
1/2  teaspoon fresh thyme leaves or
     1 teaspoon dried thyme
  1  tablespoon butter
  1  English cucumber (about
     12 oz.), rinsed, or regular
     cucumber, peeld and seeded
     About 3/4 cup creme fraiche
     or sour cream
     About 1/2 teaspoon salt
     About 1/8 teaspoon hot sauce

1. combine 2 1/2 cups broth, potatoes, onion, celery, parsley, green onion, thyme, and butter in a 5- to 6-quart pan; cover and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until potatoes mash easily with a fork, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature, about 1 hour.

2. Meanwhile, thinly slice a fourth of the cucumber; wrap airtight and chill. Coarsely chop remaining.

3. Working in batches, whirl potato mixture and chopped cucumber in a blender until smooth; pour into a large bowl. Stir in 3/4 cup creme fraiche, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon hot sauce. Cover and chill until cold, at least 1 hour, or up to 1 day.

4. Thin soup with more broth. If desired, add more salt and hot sauce to taste. Ladle into bowls and garnish with sliced cucumber and more creme fraiche.

Per serving: 322 cal., 56% (180 cal.) from fat; log protein; 20 g fat (128 sat.); 26 g carbo (3.9g fiber); 440 mg sodium; 45 mg chol.

RELATED ATRICLE: Put a good spin on it.

* Herbs have a water problem: Thyme sprigs need a bath before you season your sauce with them, but those tiny leaves are a bear to pluck from their twiggy stems when they're dripping. Tarragon or cilantro or basil needs a rinse too, before you whirl it with olive oil and nuts into pesto, but then--well, it's wet. And everyone knows water and oil don't mix. Enter the spin doctor--OXO's new little salad and herb spinner. Expertly propelled with a toplike mechanism, the spinner even has a brake to terminate activity when delicate herbs have had enough. And as for the little salad spinner's other intended use (implied by the name)--drying small amounts of greens--the durable gadget puts the best spin on salad for one. It's available in cookware departments and stores or directly from OXO (800/545441 1) for about $18.