Cook smart, eat well: spa chefs' secrets for light, tantalizing meals

Sunset, Jan, 2003 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

Postholiday diet resolutions number about the same as the adult population. Of course, what constitutes a healthy diet is a matter of debate. What isn't debatable is that if the food doesn't taste good, the diet won't stick. "For healthy food to be embraced, not just tolerated, it must have vibrant flavors and textures that are pleasing and familiar--as well as maintain a low-fat nutritional profile," says executive chef Jim Gallivan of Red Mountain Spa in Utah. We went to Gallivan and other talented spa chefs to find out what techniques they use to create terrific-tasting light dishes.

In the first place, we found that while fat is still getting a lot of attention, it's not always as the enemy. Health experts vary on how much they recommend; the generally advised limit is 20 to 30 percent of your day's total calories. Many of the chefs we talked to achieve that through balance--some dishes over that range, some under. But most agree that fat is necessary, even good- especially the omega-3 fatty acids present in salmon and other cold-water fish and the monounsaturated fats found in olive oil and avocados.

Questions of food science aside, most spa chefs share one philosophy: variety, balance, and moderation are the keys to eating well. Their cooking is based on healthy, fiber-dense foods, such as whole grains, and antioxidant-rich vegetables and fruits. To that they add moderate portions of heart-healthy proteins like those in fish, nuts, and legumes.

To make your resolutions a pleasure this year, we collected specific cooking tips and delicious dishes that incorporate them.

Halibut Steamed with Ginger, Orange, and Lime

Cook fish in citrus-flavored steam, then concentrate the liquid for a sauce; the citrus juice In the base, as well as zest added at the end, excites the palate and brings out other flavors. Also combine fresh and dry versions of an ingredient-fresh and ground ginger, for instance--to intensify the flavor.

LIGHT COOKING TIP

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes

NOTES: This lively steamed fish comes from chef Gallivan at Red Mountain Spa in Ivins, Utah.

MAKES: 4 servings

  3 cups orange juice
1/3 cup lime juice
  1 tablespoon ground ginger
  4 pieces (4 oz. each) boned,
    skinned halibut fillet
  1 tablespoon cornstarch
  2 teaspoons minced
    fresh ginger
    Salt
    Cayenne
    Asian chili oil (optional)
    Thin shreds lime peel
    (green part only)

1. In the bottom of an 11 - to 12-inch-wide steamer or in a deep 5-to 6-quart pan, combine orange juice, lime juice, and ground ginger. Set a nonstick or oiled rack at least 1 inch above surface of juice (elevate, if necessary, on the rim of a cheesecake pan or three clean, empty 2-to 3-in.-tall cans with both ends removed). Cover pan and bring juice to a boil over high heat.

3. In a small bowl, mix cornstarch with 3 tablespoons water. Add mixture, along with fresh ginger, to reduced pan juices; stir until boiling. Add salt and cayenne to taste.

2. Rinse fish. Set pieces slightly apart on rack over boiling juice; cover pan and reduce heat to medium. Steam until fish is barely opaque but still moist-looking in center of thickest part (cut to test), 8 to 10 minutes. Lift out rack. With a wide spatula, lift fish from rack and set on a warm plate; cover to keep warm. Increase heat to high and boil pan juices, uncovered, until reduced to about 11/2 cups, 10 to 12 minutes.

4. Divide sauce evenly among four dinner plates. Lay a piece of fish in sauce on each plate. Garnish each portion with a few drops of chili oil and shreds of lime peel.

Per serving: 226 cal., 11% (25 cal.) from fat; 25 g protein; 2.8 g fat (0.4 g sat.); 249 carbo (0.4 g fiber); 67mg sodium; 36mg chol.

Grilled Portabellas with Couscous

LIGHT COOKING TIP

Healthy whole-grain foods tend to be slightly darker than their more processed counterparts; set them off with vivid color to increase appeal.

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes

NOTES: Executive chef Michel Stroot at the Golden Door in Escoridido, California, fills grilled portabella mushrooms with whole-wheat couscous and rings them with bright red and yellow bell pepper sauces (you can use just one color if you like). He tops them with grilled asparagus; green onions work well in the winter.

MAKES: 4 servings

  4 portabella mushroom caps
    (4 to 5 in. wide, 4 to 6 oz. each)
  8 green onions
  2 tablespoons olive oil
  2 teaspoons lemon juice
  4 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
1/4 teaspoon fresh-ground pepper
3/4 cup vegetable stock (recipe on page
    76, or used canned broth)
1/2 cup whole-wheat couscous
  2 tablespoons minced parsley
    or fresh basil leaves
    About 1 cup pepper coulis
    (recipe on page 76)
    Salt

1. Trim off and discard any stems from mushroom caps; gently rinse caps and drain well. Rinse green onions; trim off and discard ends. In a small bowl, mix olive oil and lemon juice.

2. Brush smooth sides of mushroom caps and the green onions with oil mixture. Lay mushrooms, smooth side down, and green onions on a grill over hot coals or high heat on a gas grill (you can hold your hand at grill level only 2 to 3 seconds); close lid if using a gas barbecue. Turn onions as needed until lightly browned on all sides, 2 to 3 minutes total. With tongs, transfer to a plate. Cook mushrooms without turning until they are limp and begin to release their juices, 3 to 5 minutes. With a wide spatula, transfer, smooth side down, to a 9-by 13-inch baking pan.