Great catch! Shellfish soups around the world, from Veracruz to Saigon - includes recipes

Sunset, Feb, 1999 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

Wild Dungeness crab captured as they scuttle offshore anywhere from Alaska to Mexico, blue-black mussels hauled from cold waters along the coast of Spain, and giant shrimp gathered from the sea around Vietnam: in tide-splashed cuisines worldwide, exquisitely packaged creatures from the deep cook up into cauldrons of signature shellfish soups.

Add a salad and a loaf of crusty bread for a simply sensational supper, with any international accent you choose. These soups are definitely hands-on affairs, so provide big napkins, dump buckets for discarded shells, and wet towels or finger bowls for cleanup.

Orange-Fennel Cioppino

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 2 hours

NOTES: You can complete soup through step 4 up to 1 day ahead, then cover and chill. Reheat to continue. For a less costly version, omit the lobster tails and increase the shrimp to 1 1/2 pounds.

MAKES: 6 servings

1 head fennel (about 3 1/2 in. wide) with feathery green tops 1 pound leeks 3 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 cans (28 oz. each) diced tomatoes 3 cups fat-skimmed chicken broth 2 cups bottled clam juice 2 cups dry white wine 2 dried bay leaves 1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme leaves or dried thyme 1 tablespoon grated orange peel 1/8 teaspoon powdered saffron (optional) 3 spiny or rock lobster tails (1/2 lb. each), thawed if frozen 1 pound boned, skinned halibut or swordfish, cut into 6 equal pieces 3/4 pound (30 to 35 per lb.) shrimp, shelled and deveined 1/2 pound bay scallops 12 clams in shells, suitable for steaming, scrubbed 12 mussels (about 3 in. each), beards pulled off, scrubbed

1. Trim off feathery fennel tops; rinse, drain, wrap airtight, and chill. Trim off and discard base of fennel head, any bruises, and tough stalks. Rinse and thinly slice fennel head.

2. Trim tough tops and roots from leeks; pull off coarse outer layers. Cut tender sections of leeks in half lengthwise, rinse well, and thinly slice.

3. In an 8- to 10-quart pan, combine fennel, leeks, garlic, and oil. Stir often over medium-high heat until vegetables are lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes.

4. Add tomatoes with juice, broth, clam juice, wine, bay leaves, thyme, orange peel, and saffron. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat.

5. Meanwhile, with scissors, cut fins and sharp spines from lobster tails. Also cut through top shells lengthwise down the center. Set each tail, underside down, on a board. With a heavy knife, slice tails in half lengthwise through cuts in shells. Rinse lobster tails, halibut, shrimp, and scallops.

6. Add lobster, halibut, and shrimp to tomato mixture. Discard any clams or mussels that do not close when shells are tapped. Add clams and mussels to pan; cover and cook 5 minutes. Add scallops. Cover and simmer until mussels and clams pop open, 3 to 5 more minutes.

7. Transfer cioppino to a tureen or ladle into wide bowls. Garnish with green fennel tops.

Per serving: 442 cal., 18% (79 cal.) from fat; 55 g protein; 8.8 g fat (1.2 g sat.); 22 g carbo (3.1 g fiber); 1,149 mg sodium; 158 mg chol.

Basque Steamed Mussels

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 45 minutes

NOTES: Chef Scott A. Barton, at Plouf in San Francisco, steams blue-black mussels in a vivid red broth of roasted peppers, then adds homemade habanero vinegar for a zing to match the color.

MAKES: 5 or 6 servings

5 red bell peppers (2 1/2 lb. total) 1 green bell pepper (1/2 lb.) About 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons minced garlic 1 cup chopped onion 2 cups bottled clam juice or fat-skimmed chicken broth 1 cup dry white wine About 2 teaspoons habanero vinegar (recipe follows) or hot sauce 6 dozen mussels (about 3 in. each), beards pulled off, scrubbed 2 tablespoons chopped parsley Salt

1. Place red and green peppers in a 10-by 15-inch pan. Broil about 4 inches from heat until pepper skins are charred and blistered all over, turning as needed, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool. Pull off and discard skins, stems, and seeds. Chop red and green peppers separately

2. In a food processor or blender, puree 3/4 of the red peppers until smooth.

3. In a 6- to 8-quart pan over high heat, combine I teaspoon olive oil and the garlic. Stir often until garlic is limp, about 1 minute. Add onion, clam juice, wine, 1 teaspoon habanero vinegar, and red pepper puree. Cover and bring to a boil.

4. Discard any gaping mussels that do not close when shells are tapped. Add mussels to pan, cover, and cook until shells pop open, 5 to 10 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer mussels to wide bowls.

5. Add chopped green and red peppers to broth; bring to a boil. Add parsley and season mixture to taste with salt and more habanero vinegar. Ladle over mussels. Drizzle each serving with olive oil to taste.

Per serving: 168 cal., 23% (38 cal.) from fat; 10 g protein; 4.2 g fat (0.6 g sat.); 18 g carbo (3.5 g fiber); 367 mg sodium; 18 mg chol.

Habanero Vinegar

PREP TIME: 5 minutes NOTES: If making ahead, cover and chill vinegar up to 1 month. MAKES: About 1 cup

In a blender, whirl 1 cup champagne vinegar or white wine vinegar and 1 rinsed and stemmed fresh habanero chili (1/2 oz.) until chili is pureed.