A taste of India: familiar foods glorified, spices simplified, step by flavorful step - includes recipes

Sunset, Feb, 1999 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

The enticing fragrance of mingling spices and the soothing sounds of Ravi Shankar's sitar heighten anticipation for a special dinner at Laxmi Hiremath's home. A self-taught cook and writer from Pune, India, Hiremath prefers to offer many small tastes - each with different hues, textures, and spices - to entice newcomers to her cuisine.

Even novice cooks will find this menu easy to prepare, because much of it can be completed far ahead of time (see Stepping Ahead, page 118). You will find all the basic elements at a supermarket, but for authentic details - black cumin, curry leaves, pickles, and flatbreads - shop at an Indian market.

Tandoori Quail

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour MAKES: 6 to 8 servings

1/2 cup plain nonfat or low-fat yogurt

1/4 cup minced fresh ginger

2 tablespoons minced garlic

4 teaspoons tandoori masala (recipe follows)

About 1/2 teaspoon salt

6 to 8 quail (about 1/4 lb. each)

1. In a large bowl, mix the yogurt, ginger, garlic, tandoori masala, and 1/2 teaspoon salt.

2. Rinse quail and pat dry. Using poultry shears or a sharp knife, cut out the backbone of each quail. Turn birds skin side up and press with the palm of your hand to flatten; a few bones will crack.

3. Turn birds in yogurt mixture to coat. Cover and chill at least 30 minutes or up to 1 day.

4. To barbecue, place quail on an oiled grill over medium-hot coals or over medium-high heat on a gas grill (you can hold your hand at grill level only 3 to 4 seconds). Close lid of gas grill. Cook quail, turning as needed, until skin is well browned and meat at breastbone is still pink (cut to test), 12 to 14 minutes total. Season to taste with salt.

Per serving: Approx. 211 cal., 51% (108 cal.) from fat; 21 g protein; 12 g fat (3.4 g sat.); 3 g carbo (0.2 g fiber); 211 mg sodium; 77 mg chol.

Tandoori Masala

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 12 minutes

MAKES: About 1/3 cup

1. Remove seed from 6 green or white cardamom pods (or use 1/8 teaspoon cardamom seed).

2. In an 8- to 10-inch frying pan over medium heat, combine cardamom seed, 1 tablespoon coriander seed, 1 1/2 teaspoons black or regular cumin seed, 1 1/2 teaspoons whole cloves, 3/4 teaspoon black peppercorns, and 1 cinnamon stick (1 in.). Stir often until the mixture is aromatic and the seeds are lightly browned, 4 to 5 minutes.

3. Pour the spice mixture into a blender or spice grinder and whirl or grind to a fine powder.

4. Add 2 1/2 tablespoons paprika and 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger; whirl to mix. Season to taste with cayenne (about 1/4 teaspoon for moderately hot). If making tandoori masala up to 1 week ahead, store airtight.

Per tablespoon: 20 cal., 41% (8.1 cal.) from fat; 0.8 g protein; 0.9 g fat (0.1 g sat.); 3.7 g carbo (0.6 g fiber); 4.4 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Tandoori Cornish Hens

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/4 hours

MAKES: 6 or 8 servings

1. Follow directions for Tandoori Quail (preceding), but instead of quail, use 3 or 4 Cornish hens (1 1/2 lb. each). Cut hens in half through breastbones and backbones.

2. To barbecue over charcoal ignite 60 briquets on firegrate in a barbecue with a lid. When coals are spotted with gray ash, in 20 to 30 minutes, bank about half the coals on each side of the firegrate. Place a drip pan in the center. Set grill above coals.

To barbecue over gas, turn gas barbecue to high heat and cover for 10 minutes. Adjust for indirect heat.

3. Set hen halves about 1/2 inch apart on center of grill, not over heat. Cover and cook until meat is no longer pink at thigh bone (cut to test), 30 to 35 minutes total.

Per serving: 389 cal., 60% (234 cal.) from fat; 33 g protein; 26 g fat (7.3 g sat.); 3 g carbo (0.2 g fiber); 249 mg sodium; 188 mg chol.

Tandoori Roasted Vegetables

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 50 minutes

NOTES: Use a mixture of these vegetables in proportions desired, changing for variety each time you prepare dish: 1-inch bell pepper squares, 1/4-inch-thick diagonal carrot and asparagus slices, whole cherry tomatoes, and 1/2-inch turnip or zucchini chunks. Serve as a first course or with roasted meats.

MAKES: 6 to 8 servings

12 cups bite-size vegetables (see notes)

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 tablespoons tandoori masala (recipe at left)

Salt and pepper

1. In an 11- by 17-inch roasting pan, mix vegetables, oil, and tandoori masala.

2. Bake in a 400 [degrees] oven, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are browned and tender when pierced, 40 to 45 minutes (30 to 35 minutes in a convection oven).

3. Transfer to serving dish. Serve hot or cool. Cover and chill up to 1 day. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 101 cal., 50% (50 cal.) from fat; 3.1 g protein; 5.6 g fat (0.7 g sat.); 12 g carbo (3.4 g fiber); 45 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Creamed Kidney Beans

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 35 minutes

NOTES: YOU can use pinto beans instead of kidney beans.

MAKES: 6 to 8 servings

1 1/2 teaspoons coriander seed

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

3/4 teaspoon cumin seed

1 tablespoon butter or margarine

1 cup minced onion

3 or 4 fresh jalapeno chilies (1 1/2 to 2 oz. total), stemmed and minced

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger 1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic