Perfect under pressure: for quick meals, turn to these versatile pans - includes recipes

Sunset, Feb, 1999 by Suzanne Carreiro

The pressure cooker has never been more timely. It gets foods to the table long before conventional cooking does; it is user-friendly, tenderizes tough cuts of meat, and requires little fat - which just about covers every modern cooking concern!

Extremely versatile (check out the manufacturer's instruction booklets), pressure cookers produce flavorful soups, stews, beans, grains, meats, fresh vegetables, and fruit dishes - even risotto.

Food cooks faster under pressure because it reaches higher temperatures. At sea level, food cooks at 212 [degrees] (boiling); at a pressure cooker's maximum pressure (15 lb.), the temperature rises to 250 [degrees]. The pressure is regulated by the amount of heat under the pan and by a valve or weight that controls the release of steam through a small vent. The type of valve varies among brands. Most models have a choice of settings that produce different temperatures. All pressure cookers are easy to operate, but for safety it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions.

EXPLORING THE OPTIONS

Pressure cookers are available in 2- to 12-quart sizes, and range in price from $50 to more than $200. A 6-quart pan is adequate for recipes that serve six. If you frequently cook for large groups, however, choose an 8- to 12-quart pan.

Pressure cookers are sold in housewares sections of department stores and in cookware and hardware stores.

BEFORE YOU COOK

Learn how the lid and handle fit together, how the pressure valve works, and how to clean the steam release opening. Call the manufacturer or retailer if the owner's manual is unclear.

Most manufacturers advise filling the pan no more than two-thirds full. Foods that tend to foam and block the vent are not recommended for pressure cooking - for example, applesauce, cranberries, oatmeal and other cereals, pasta, barley, rhubarb, and split peas. In general, foods that you can braise or steam work well. To adapt your favorite recipes to the pressure cooker, consult the manufacturer's instructions for cooking times and liquid amounts.

If you have a vintage pressure cooker:

1. Make sure the pan bottom is flat and the handles and pressure vent are free of cracks and nicks.

2. Check the gasket. If it is dried out or won't seal, soak it in hot water for 20 minutes, then dry it and rub it with salad oil. If it's still stiff, discard it and buy a new gasket.

For information about Mirro and Wearever pressure cookers, call (800) 527-7727; to order new parts, call the Cook's Corner Factory Outlet at (800) 236-2433. For Presto pressure cooker information, call (800) 877-0441.

Dungeness Crab Risotto

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 25 minutes, including 6 minutes under pressure

MAKES: 4 main-dish servings

1 tablespoon butter or olive oil

3/4 cup finely chopped onions

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 cups arborio or medium-grain white rice

1 3/4 cups fat-skimmed chicken broth 1/2 cup dry white wine

3/4 pound shelled cooked Dungeness crab

1/2 cup finely shredded parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon minced flesh sage leaves Salt

1. In a 6-quart pressure cooker over high heat, frequently stir butter, onions, and garlic until onions are limp, about 3 minutes. Add rice and stir often until it is opaque, about 3 minutes longer. Add broth, wine, and 2 cups water. Stir occasionally until mixture boils, about 4 minutes.

2. Seal cooker. Following manufacturer's instructions, bring to maximum pressure (15 lb.); adjust heat to stabilize cooking rate. Cook 6 minutes. Release pressure quickly, running cold water over pan.

3. Open pan. Stir in crab, parmesan cheese, and sage. Add salt to taste.

Per serving: 489 cal., 16% (76 cal.) from fat; 31 g protein; 8.4 g fat (3.9 g sat.); 70 g carbo (6.3 g fiber); 491 mg sodium; 101 mg chol.

Lamb and Mushroom Stew

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour, including 20 minutes under pressure

MAKES: 6 servings

2 pounds boned lamb shoulder or beef chuck, fat-trimmed, cut into

1 1/2-inch chunks

1/2 pound common mushrooms

1/2 pound fresh shiitake mushrooms (or more common mushrooms)

3/4 pound onions, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 cup thinly sliced carrots

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 ounces thin-sliced pancetta or bacon, chopped

1 cup dry red wine

3 tablespoons minced fresh basil leaves

1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary leaves

5 whole cloves

1 package (10 oz.) frozen peas

1 tablespoon cornstarch Salt and pepper Mashed potatoes or hot cooked rice

1. In a 6-quart pressure cooker over high heat, frequently stir lamb until browned, about 15 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer lamb to a bowl.

2. Meanwhile, rinse common mushrooms, trim stem ends, and quarter mushrooms. Rinse shiitakes, discard stems, and slice caps.

3. In cooker, stir common mushrooms, shiitakes, onions, carrots, garlic, and pancetta until onions are lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add lamb and juices, wine, basil, rosemary, and cloves.

4. Seal cooker. Following manufacturer's instructions, bring to maximum pressure (15 lb.); adjust heat to stabilize cooking rate. Cook 20 minutes. Release pressure quickly, running cold water over pan.