Puget Sound, Washington: the wine islands - The New Wine Countries

Sunset, August, 1999 by Chuck Hill

There is something stirring about taking a ferry to go wine touring. Sea breezes and blue skies whet the appetite for the vintages that wait across the water. A more enjoyable transition from city to wine country is hard to imagine.

While some of Washington state's largest and best-known wineries are located just east of Seattle, other vintners have settled near the water, in what has been designated the Puget Sound appellation. Even within the appellation, many winemakers produce wines made exclusively from grapes grown elsewhere, notably eastern Washington's Columbia Valley. But an increasing number are planting vineyards here on the shores of Puget Sound. Their cool-weather varieties sometimes puzzle the palates of Chardonnay lovers, but the popularity of Puget Sound's locally grown wine rises each year.

Gerard and Jo Ann Bentryn's Bainbridge Island Vineyards & Winery is a half-hour ferry ride from downtown Seattle. Subscribing to an unbending philosophy of local wine production, Bainbridge Island Winery produces Madeleine Angevine, Muller-Thurgau, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, and Siegerrebe, all from grapes grown at the winery. Intensely flavored strawberry and raspberry wines are made seasonally from fruit grown elsewhere on Bainbridge Island. The fruit wines vary each year, say the Bentryns, taking on the sweetness and flavor of that season's crop.

The Bentryns are happy to have visitors. They offer wine tasting and a self-guided vineyard tour Wednesdays through Sundays. And Gerard leads a winegrower's vineyard tour each Sunday, rain or shine.

To reach another of Puget Sound's wineries, take the ferry from Mukilteo (southwest of Everett) to Whidbey Island Vineyards & Winery, near the artists community of Langley. Greg and Elizabeth Osenbach raise Siegerrebe and Madeleine Angevine grapes to produce local wine, but they also bring red grapes from eastern Washington's warmer Yakima Valley to make their Lemberger and Cabernet Sauvignon. A flavorful rhubarb wine provides another dimension for tasters. Just north, Whidbey Island Greenbank Farm offers wine tasting and picnicking.

The north end of Whidbey stops at Deception Pass, where swift-running tidal waters make for exciting viewing from the bridge above. Just north, another ferry leaves from Anacortes to serve the San Juan Islands. The ferry's first stop is Lopez Island, home to Brent Charnley's Lopez Island Vineyards. Charnley founded the winery in 1987, and he grows Madeleine Angevine and Siegerrebe grapes on the site. Like Greg Osenbach, Charnley chooses to make his reds (Merlot and a Cabernet and Merlot blend) from Columbia Valley fruit, and offers local fruit wines - apple-pear and blackberry - as well.

A few stops farther on the island ferry milk run is San Juan Island, the largest in the archipelago. At Friday Harbor you'll find a pleasing mix of nautical shops and art galleries, along with the excellent Whale Museum. Just up the hill is San Juan Vineyards. It began winemaking operations last year. The owners planted an 8-acre vineyard with hopes for a first commercial harvest in 2000.

Bellingham, on the mainland, is the jumping-off point for Mount Baker Vineyards. Owner Randy Finley is joined by his winemaker son, Maitland, in producing a wide selection of local wines. Chasselas, Madeleine Angevine, Muller-Thurgau, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, and Siegerrebe are made from grapes grown on the estate's 7-acre vineyard, while other red varieties derive from grapes imported from the Yakima Valley. Apple, blackberry, blueberry, plum, raspberry, and rhubarb wines, all from local fruits, round out Finley's offerings.

More fine fruit wines can be had west of Seattle, off U.S. 101 near Hood Canal. Here Hoodsport Winery's offerings include a delicious raspberry wine, along with the historic Island Belle grape wine from some of Washington's oldest vines, on nearby Stretch Island.

Bainbridge Island Vineyards Greek Garlic Chicken

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 2 hours

NOTES: Vineyard co-owner Jo Ann Bentryn uses considerably more salt to give the sauce the quality she likes. But our taste panel preferred less; you can always add more when serving. For speed, buy peeled or minced garlic; or with the flat side of a knife, lightly smash cloves and pull off skin.

MAKES: 8 servings

8 chicken legs (thighs and drumsticks attached; about 5 lb. total)

2/3 cup minced garlic (about 3 heads)

1/2 cup lemon juice

1/4 cup olive oil

2 1/2 tablespoons dried oregano

2 tablespoons coarseground pepper

1 to 2 teaspoons salt (see notes)

1/4 cup chopped parsley

Parsley sprigs

1. Rinse chicken, pat dry, and pull off and discard lumps of fat. Put legs in a rimmed 12- by 17-inch pan.

2. In a bowl, mix minced garlic, lemon juice, olive oil, oregano, pepper, and salt. Smear garlic mixture evenly over chicken, then arrange legs, cut side down, in a single layer.

3. Bake in a 375 [degrees] oven until skin is well browned, about 1 1/2 hours (1 1/4 hours in a convection oven). After 45 minutes, baste chicken with pan juices every 10 to 15 minutes.