Fresh bean bounty: relish these popular vegetables in all their colors, sizes, and shapes - includes recipes

Sunset, August, 1999 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

Po-po, my grandmother, taught me to love fresh beans. Well, technically, bean pods - beans that are bred and grown to be eaten before the seeds inside are fully developed, while the pod that cradles them is still tender, plump, and fleshy.

A passionate gardener, Po-Po planted the kinds of beans she liked to eat, none of which we found at the local grocer's. She also was an exacting cook who prepared beans tender-crisp and brightly colored - hardly the olive drab, mushy norm of the mid-'50s.

Her fresh beans grew fast, sometimes rambling, sometimes in bushes. The ones I remember most fondly were dark green, round, skinny, and almost the yard long their name promised. She also grew a bean that was short, plump, and a translucent gold. She would slice the pods into bitesize lengths, briefly boil or steam them, then stir-fry them - with ingredients like pork and a pungent sauce - until they were full of flavor, yet still so crunchy they squeaked when chewed.

Times have changed. The beans that Po-Po grew, as well as many others that are equally colorful and tasty, are readily available in farmers' markets and well-stocked supermarkets: long or short, thin or wide, rounded or flat. Some are distinguished by a variety name, others by their physical characteristics like color and shape. And some beans have pronounced flavor, while others are more delicate in taste. Some are chewier than others (though all fresh beans are tender); past their prime, beans get tough and fibrous.

Regardless, the simplest, freshest way to deal with beans is to cook them to crunchy tenderness. Then enjoy them, lightly seasoned or vividly sauced, as a vegetable or salad, with pasta, or in soup. These recipes take advantage of the color, texture, size, and shape of the beans in today's market - while duly honoring Po-Po's stringent cooking standards.

Cooked Fresh Beans

PREP AND COOK TIME: 12 to 18 minutes

NOTES: Serve cooked beans plain or use as directed in the following recipes. If making up to 1 day ahead, wrap the cool beans airtight and chill. To reheat, immerse the cooked beans in boiling water until hot, 1 to 2 minutes; drain.

MAKES: 4 cups; 4 servings

1. In a 5- to 6-quart pan over high heat, bring 2 1/2 to 3 quarts water to a boil.

2. Trim stem ends and pull any strings from 1 pound fresh beans (for choices, see photographs and descriptions on pages 130 to 133). Rinse beans and drain; leave whole or cut into 2- to 3-inch lengths.

3. Add beans to boiling water and cook until just tender to bite, 3 to 7 minutes. Drain.

4. Serve hot. Or immerse the beans at once in ice water until cool, to preserve texture (and, if green, their bright color). Drain and serve, or cover and chill up to 1 day.

Per serving: 35 cal., 2.6% (0.9 cal.) from fat; 2.1 g protein; 0.1 g fat (0 g sat.); 8.1 g carbo (2 g fiber); 6.8 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Long Beans and Noodles

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 25 minutes

MAKES: 2 servings

1. In a 5- to 6-quart pan over high heat, bring about 3 quarts water to a boil.

2. Meanwhile, trim stem ends from 1/2 pound yard-long beans; rinse beans.

3. To boiling water, add beans and 8 ounces fresh udon or fresh Shanghai (about 1/4 in. thick) noodles. Cook just until beans and noodles are tender to bite, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain.

4. Mix sesame dressing (recipe follows; prepare through step 2) with hot beans and noodles.

Per serving: 703 cal., 28% (198 cal.) from fat; 26 g protein; 22 g fat (2.4 g sat.); 104 g carbo (11 g fiber); 1,200 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Beans with Sesame Dressing

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 20 minutes

NOTES: This spicy dressing is very attractive on yellow beans, and goes well with Kentucky Wonder green beans.

MAKES: 4 servings

1. In a 6- to 8-inch frying pan over medium heat, combine 2 tablespoons each salad oil and sesame seed. Shake pan often until seed is golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon each minced fresh ginger, minced garlic, and minced fresh red jalapeno or serrano chili (or 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon hot chili flakes). Stir, remove from heat, and let cool about 2 minutes.

2. Add 3 tablespoons rice vinegar, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, and 1/2 teaspoon sugar and stir to blend.

3. Pour dressing over 1 pound hot or cool cooked fresh beans (recipe at left; see notes) and mix.

Per serving: 134 cal., 62% (83 cal.) from fat; 3.5 g protein; 9.2 g fat (1.2 g sat.); 12 g carbo (2.7 g fiber); 522 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Beans with Tarragon Vinaigrette

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 20 minutes

NOTES: This fresh-tasting herb dressing, tangy with mustard, suits tender, small whole beans such as haricots verts, and round-pod yellow and green beans.

MAKES: 4 servings

1. Mix 1/4 cup rice vinegar, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, and 1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon leaves or 1 teaspoon dried tarragon.

2. Combine the tarragon vinaigrette with 1 pound cold cooked fresh beans (page 132, see notes). Mix beans and dressing; add salt and pepper to taste.