Sweet Dreams - best B&Bs in the U.S. West

Sunset, Feb, 2000 by Jeff Phillips

The West's Best B&Bs

Romance is in the air at 24 B&Bs with magnificent settings, historic charm, lush gardens. And then there's breakfast

WHAT DOES THE WEST'S BEST BED-AND-BREAKFAST LOOK LIKE? CLOSE YOUR eyes and you can almost see it--the inviting setting, the garden walk leading up to the charming entry the cozy ambience of your room, the savory breakfast. The only problem with this nice little image is that no two travelers would describe their ideal B&B in quite the same way. Don't believe us? Just ask your spouse.

This one-of-a-kind individuality is what makes B&B stays so wildly popular. It is also what made our search for the West's best so challenging. And so much fun. After evaluating hundreds of properties in 13 states, we defined a B&B as having 3 to 12 guest rooms--then immediately allowed a couple of exceptions. Breakfast, of course, had to be included in the price. We further narrowed our focus to properties that fit within four categories: romance, natural setting, garden, and historic preservation. Finally, we went undercover, so to speak, anonymously spending a night at each property on our list of finalists.

The result: a remarkably diverse collection of 24 outstanding getaways. Some are brand-new; others have been so good for so long and are so well known that we've given them "classic" status. Rates quoted are for double occupancy during February (rates often vary by season); many require a two-night minimum stay on weekends.

One unexpected bonus from all of this research: the delectable breakfast recipes beginning on page 100. Even if you can't get away right now, you can whip up your own taste of the "inn" life.

west's best b&bs romance

* WHITEGATE INN, Mendocino, CA

ONLY THE CRUSTIEST OF CURMUDGEONS WOULDN'T SENSE THE ROMANTIC atmosphere filling the Whitegate Inn. First, the setting is as idyllic as anything a romance novelist could dream up: The white Victorian-style inn sits on a quiet side street in the seaside village of Mendocino, near rugged, moody headlands, perfumed by ocean air. Then you step through the gate into a garden bursting with pink, purple, and violet blooms. Sheltered benches, a cozy gazebo, and corner hideaways ensure your privacy. Wine and hors d'oeuvres served each evening in the elegant parlor, with a fire crackling and the shadows of flames dancing against a soft pink settee, help set a decidedly relaxed mood. And when you're ready to retire to the privacy of your own antiques-furnished room, you can slip a CD into the player, fire up the gas-log fireplace, and take a nice long soak in a claw-foot tub. Or just dive into the enormous carved-wood bed and pull up the fluffy down comforter. Whatever you do, vow to rise early for a decadent breakfast (perhaps caramel apple French toast) served on fine china, before taking a long, quiet walk on a misty headland trail while you still have the coast pretty much to yourself. ESSENTIALS: Six rooms plus a cottage, all with private baths, fireplaces, cable TV, feather beds. $149-$249 (ask about winter getaway packages). 499 Howard St.; (800) 531-7282, (707) 937-4892, or www.whitegateinn.com.

* WILLOWS HISTORIC PALM SPRINGS INN, Palm Springs, CA

Lora J. Finnegan

The Willows unveils its entrance slowly, like a sheik pulling back the folds of a mysterious desert tent. The Italian-villa architecture of the three-story, eight-bedroom mansion--owned by New York lawyer Samuel Untermyer until his death in 1940--melds with the San Jacinto Mountains themselves.

The drama of the grand setting and Untermyer's passion for horticulture mesh seamlessly in an expansive hillside garden. Stone walks weave through a profusion of blossoms, spines, and rustling leaves stitched together by the zip-zip of countless hummingbirds.

Inside, the restored house has gleaming oak floors, antique furnishings, and the most astonishing element of all--a view of a 50-foot-tall waterfall gushing down the mountain outside the huge glass doors of the garden breakfast room.

Days can easily be whiled away by the pool--if, that is, you can roust yourself from the seductive comfort of crisp clouds of sheets, down comforters, and white matelasse spreads.

ESSENTIALS: Eight rooms with private baths; four with fireplaces. $275-$525. 412 W. Tahquitz Canyon Way; (800) 966-9597, (760) 320-0771, or www.thewillowspalmsprings.com.

* CASA DE LAS CHIMENEAS Taos, NM

Peter Jensen

Every room at the "House of Chimneys" reflects the sultry Southwest through bold designs, warm colors, and hand-carved furniture just right for a hacienda. Since afternoon hors d'oeuvres here are hearty enough for a light evening meal, why venture out? Tiptoe through the garden for a moonlit soak in the hot tub or simply cuddle up by the fire in your room. With innovative main courses like wild rice pancakes with sauteed apples, breakfast is worth getting up for.

ESSENTIALS: Eight rooms with private entrances, fireplaces, and full baths (four with jetted tubs), plus cable TV and phones; there's also a fitness room and sauna. $140-$300. 405 Cordoba Rd.; (877) 758-4777, (505) 758-4777, or www.VisitTaos.com.