Wonderful Wallowas - Wallowa Mountains, Oregon

Sunset, August, 2000 by Steven R. Lorton

Where to go these last weeks of summer? The trails and lakeside beaches of Oregon's little-known Alps beckon

* Not far outside the little town of Joseph, Oregon, State 82 makes a gentle turn to the south and there they are: the Wallowa Mountains. Jagged, snowy; and dark, they rise majestically from a sloping valley almost too picturesque to be real.

This range is often called the Alps of Oregon - geologically, a valid comparison. Like the Swiss Alps, the glacier-carved valleys are deep and U-shaped. The peaks are sharp; one of the tallest is the 9,826-foot Matter-horn, named for its Swiss cousin. But here the parallel ends. This is not a land of lederhosen and cuckoo clocks.

Tucked into the northeast corner of the state the Wallowa Mountains (pronounced wah-lowwah) are little known outside the inland Northwest. They include 126 peaks taller than 8,000 feet, which are surrounded by lakes, alpine meadows, and rushing streams. A big chunk of the range is within the 354,290-acre Eagle cap Wilderness-stunningly wild country accessible only by horse or on foot.

Once the land of the Nez Perc[acute{e}], the mountains became a resource for agriculture and logging when white settlers moved in. But in recent years, Oregon's Alps have been attracting more and more travelers--especially to the Wallowa Lake area near Enterprise and Joseph. However, while a large portion of the local economy now depends on tourism, the region still has a homey authenticity.

It's the kind of place that invites you settle in for a long weekend--or even a week--and explore at your own pace.

Enterprise and Joseph

Two gateways into the Wallowas are the towns of Enterprise and, 6 miles southeast, Joseph. With a combined population of about 3,250, they're idyllic Western locales. Each has a single main street and well-maintained brick and wood buildings, dating back to the late 19th century.

Enterprise, the county seat, is the place to stock up on groceries and supplies. Joseph is an arts center, filled with galleries that merit casual exploring. There are three bronze foundries in the area that produce casts in the spirit of Frederic Remington. Valley Bronze of Oregon offers tours that take you through the complete process, from wax model to finished artwork. A walk around town reveals a number of public sculptures--among them, one of Chief Joseph of the Nez Perc[acute{e}], for whom the town was named.

Poking around Wallowa Lake

Wallowa Lake, about 4 miles long, 300 feet deep, and oval in shape, is a perfect mirror for the mountain range. The lake has smooth, gently curving rims on the east and west sides--glacial moraines so uniform that it looks like the lake was bulldozed.

The only boat rental outfit on the lake is the Wallowa Lake Marina. Owners Bob and Gina Barstad, now in their 14th season here, know the lake. If it's serenity you crave, Gina suggests sunrise or sunset. The lake is usually calm, mountains often stand out against a watercolor sky, and you may even see deer grazing on the shores. Kokanee salmon and trout fishing are good, but by late summer, beaches at the lake's north and south ends are busy.

The little community of Wallowa Lake sits at the lake's south end. It offers several places to eat and a number of lodging options, all small family-owned operations. You can rent rustic cabins with great views; while some are a bit threadbare, they are all charming.

For an overview of the lake and the majestic range that backs it, ride the Wallowa Lake Tramway to the summit of Mt. Howard. Four-passenger gondolas travel 3,700 vertical feet 15 minutes each way. Once up the mountain, cross the alpine meadow to view points that look all the way to the Seven Devils Mountains of Idaho.

Hiking the Wallowas

The two routes here allow hikers to see seasons change with the altitude. Spring visits the valley floors two to eight weeks earlier than it reaches higher elevations, bringing explosions of flowers. Keep an eye out for wildlife: Elk and even bears can be spotted in the valleys, while mountain goats and bighorn sheep live higher up.

The East Fork Wallowa River Trail climbs along the river, gaining almost 3,000 feet in elevation in 6 miles to Aneroid Lake. Hikers cross the East Fork on a footbridge with views of nearby beaver dams, then ascend to alpine meadows and tiny Roger Lake. Aneroid Lake is another 1/2-mile climb. Strenuous; trailhead is at the end of State 82.

The Hurricane Creek Trail leads 1 mile to Falls Creek Falls, then it wanders another 4 miles across Falls Creek, through an old avalanche area, and across several meadows with spectacular views of 9,838-foot Sacajawea Peak. Backpackers can follow this same trail 6 more miles, passing Sacajawea Peak and the Matterhorn on the way to Lakes Basin, a high meadow dotted with more than 15 small lakes. First 5 miles are moderate, last 6 are strenuous. Trailhead is at the end of Forest Road 8205.

Another way to explore the mountains is on a guided pack trip: riding in on horseback or walking in with Ilamas to carry the heavy stuff. With gear and food provided, this is a civilized way for inexperienced out-doorspeople to see the backcountry.