Simple summer supper

Sunset, August, 2000 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

Follow the lead of two Southern California chefs and let the harvest inspire a feast of fresh flavors

* What do chefs do on their days off? Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton, chefs and owners of Campanile restaurant and La Brea Bakery in Los Angeles, spend summer Sunday afternoons at home, cooking in the backyard. Here, good food brings family and friends together. Their entertaining style is more casual than in the restaurant, the pace more leisurely. And their guests often help with the cooking.

In this party for eight, Peel and Silverton showcase summer's handsome harvest. Lamb is marinated in ripe plums and fresh herbs; asparagus grills on a bed of thyme. Ink black concord grapes infuse an icy granita with intense flavor and color. Vegetables, herbs, and fruits--from the couple's garden and from the market--shine in these remarkably simple and fresh presentations.

Anchovy-marinated Roasted Lipstick Peppers

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour, plus at least 12 hours to marinate

NOTES: If small peppers or mild chilies aren't available, use red bell peppers (1/2 lb. each). After peeling in step 4, stem, seed, and quarter lengthwise.

MAKES: 8 servings

8 red peppers or fresh mild red chilies such as Lipstick, pimiento, Hungarian, or Anaheim (2 to 4 oz. each; see notes)

About 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 rinsed salt-packed anchovy fillets (about 1/3 oz. total) or 3 canned anchovy fillets, drained and chopped

2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

About 1/8 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup minced Italian parsley

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1. Rinse and dry peppers, and rub lightly with about 1 teaspoon olive oil.

2. Lay peppers on a barbecue grill over a solid bed of hot coals or high beat on a gas grill (you can hold your hand at grill level only 2 to 3 seconds); close lid on gas grill. Cook, turning as needed to char all sides, 12 to 20 minutes total. Transfer to a bowl; let stand until cool, about 15 minutes.

3. Using a mortar and pestle or a food processor, mash or whirl anchovies, garlic, and 1/8 teaspoon salt to a fine paste. Add parsley; mash or whirl until smooth. Stir in vinegar and 1/4 cup oil.

4. Pull off and discard pepper skins (leave stem and seeds intact). Layer peppers in a shallow dish, coating each layer with anchovy paste. Cover and chill at least 12 hours. Bring to room temperature to serve. Add salt to taste.

Per serving: 78 cal., 83% (65 cal.) from fat; 1 g protein; 7.2 g fat (1 g sat.); 3.5 g carbo (0.9 g fiber); 94 mg sodium; 0.8 mg chol.

Butter lettuce and Fresh Herb Salad

PREP TIME: About 45 minutes

NOTES: Up to 1 day ahead, crisp lettuce.

MAKES: 8 servings

2 tablespoons fresh tarragon leaves

2 tablespoons 1-inch pieces fresh chervil

2 tablespoons 1-inch pieces chives

2 tablespoons 1-inch pieces fresh dill sprigs

2 tablespoons Italian parsley leaves

2 tablespoons 1-inch pieces fresh basil leaves

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon champagne vinegar

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons minced shallots

2 heads butter lettuce (9 oz. each), rinsed and crisped (see notes)

Salt and fresh-ground pepper

1. Rinse and drain tarragon, chervil, chives, dill, parsley, and basil; pat dry. Mix herbs; finely chop half of them.

2. In a wide serving bowl, mix lemon juice, vinegar, oil, and shallots. In a small bowl, mix 2 teaspoons dressing with large herb pieces.

3. Tear lettuce into bite-size pieces. Add lettuce and chopped herbs to wide bowl, and mix, adding salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with large herb pieces.

Per serving: 103 cal., 96% (99 cal.) from fat; 1 g protein; 11 g fat (1.5 g sat.); 2.5 g carbo (0.8 g fiber); 5.1 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Grilled Plum-marinated Lamb

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour, plus at least 8 hours to marinate

NOTES: If using a charcoal grill to cook lamb and corn (page 148), about 10 minutes before lamb is done (when it's 110[degrees] in thickest part), add 15 to 18 charcoal briquets to firegrate on each side of grill. When lamb is done, spread briquets evenly over firegrate to cook corn. MAKES: 8 servings

1 3/4 pounds firm-ripe red-fleshed plums such as Santa Rosa, Damson, or Elephant Heart

7 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

1 cup dry red wine

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1/2 cup chopped Italian parsley

2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves

2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme leaves

1 leg of lamb (6 lb.), boned, butterfiled, and fat trimmed

Salt and pepper

1. Rinse and pit plums. Whirl fruit in a blender or food processor until smooth; pour into a 9- by 13-inch pan or baking dish. Add garlic, wine, vinegar, parsley tarragon, and thyme; stir to blend.

2. Rinse lamb and pat dry; add to plum marinade and turn to coat well. Cover and chill at least 8 hours or up to 1 day, turning occasionally.

3. Lift lamb from pan and discard marinade. Lay meat flat (spread out) on a barbecue grill over a solid bed of medium coals or medium heat on a gas grill (you can hold your hand at grill level only 4 to 5 seconds). Sprinkle lamb with salt and pepper. Close lid on gas grill. Cook, turning as needed to brown meat evenly until a thermometer inserted in thickest part reaches 135[degrees] to 140[degrees] for rare, 35 to 50 minutes; thin portions will be well done.