Spicing up chicken

Sunset, August, 2000 by Jerry Anne Di Veacchio

Create a rich stew with a blend of familiar flavors

* Like many people, I grew up believing that aromatic, amber-ocher-colored curry powder was a single spice. And the curry dish I first knew contained meat (usually leftovers) swimming in a white sauce (translation: butter, flour, milk) made exotically golden by a shot of the powder. Rice was the support vehicle. Onto this curry-blanketed rice, my brother, sister, and I daringly scattered toasted coconut, raisins, chopped peanuts, and Major Grey chutney This simple combination still works lightning-quick wonders on yesterday's cooked chicken or roast.

The fact is, though, curry powder isn't a single spice, but a blend--and there are many. My vision of curry expanded immensely when I visited Thailand. There, coconut isn't the topping; it's usually the milk of the sauce. Potatoes often cook in the sauce, supplanting the rice. And curry comes in many colors, depending on the seasoning blend used.

Another revelation: You can easily make your own blend, as in this one-bowl main-dish stew Begin the meal with a salad, feast on the stew, then finish with simple mango sorbet or lime sherbet.

Green Curry

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 50 minutes

MAKES: 6 servings

1 stalk fresh lemon grass, rinsed

1/2 cup chopped shallots or onions

3 tablespoons chopped fresh ginger

2 tablespoons chopped seeded fresh jalape[tilde{n}]o chilies

1 teaspoon cumin seed

1 teaspoon coriander seed

1/4 teaspoon cardamom seed

1 can (14 oz.) coconut milk

1 1/2 pounds boned, skinned chicken thighs

1 1/2 pounds thin-skinned red potatoes (about 1 1/2 in. wide), scrubbed

1 cup chopped fresh basil leaves

1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 teaspoon grated lime peel

1 cup fat-skimmed chicken broth About 1/2 teaspoon salt

3 to 4 tablespoons lime juice About 1/4 cup fresh basil leaves, rinsed

2 limes, rinsed and cut into wedges

1. Trim and discard root end and tough tops from lemon grass; peel off and discard tough outer leaves. Chop peeled stalk. In a 5- to 6-quart pan, combine chopped lemon grass, shallots, ginger, chilies, cumin seed, coriander seed, and cardamom seed. Open coconut milk and scoop about 2 tablespoons of the thick part of the milk into the pan. Stir frequently over high heat until shallots are lightly browned, about 5 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, rinse chicken and trim off and discard fat; cut meat into 1-inch chunks. Gut potatoes into quarters.

3. Scrape lemon grass-shallot mixture into a blender; add remaining coconut milk, chopped basil, cilantro, and lime peel. Whirl until smooth, scraping container sides as needed. Return mixture to pan.

4. Add chicken, potatoes, broth, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring often. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer, stirring often, until potatoes are tender when pierced, about 25 minutes.

5. Add salt and lime juice to taste. Ladle into wide bowls and sprinkle with basil leaves. Accompany with lime wedges to squeeze as desired into curry.

Per serving: 393 cal., 44% (171 cal.) from fat; 28 g protein; 19 g fat (14 g sat.); 30 g carbo (3.0 g fiber); 326 mg sodium; 94 mg chol.

Sunshine from Down Under

* Kiwi fruit from New Zealand first hit Western markets in the late '50s. The brilliant green flesh, with its exotic flavor hinting of strawberries, bananas, and more, made it a sensation. We couldn't get enough. Kiwi fruit became a Western crop; fortunes here were made and lost. And all the while, New Zealand kept right on sending us fruit. Now they're shipping something new: This summer, through September, you'll find flesh of another color under the brown skin--gold kiwi fruit, distributed by Zespri International. The deep yellow fruit speckled with black seeds is as dazzling as its green counterpart. It has the same texture, but is somewhat sweeter. Slices look like little suns--bright rays to greet the day

Sun-up Breakfast Fruit

PREP TIME: About 10 minutes

MAKES: 2 servings

2 kiwi fruit (1/4 lb. each; gold, green, or one of each)

4 peeled pineapple slices (each 1/2 in. thick, about 1 lb. total; fresh-cut or purchased sliced)

1 teaspoon thin strands orange peel

2 tablespoons orange juice

2 tablespoons lime juice

Berry syrup such as boysenberry, blueberry, or raspberry

1. Rinse kiwi, cut off peels, and cut fruit crosswise into 1/4-inch slices. On individual plates or in bowls, arrange equal portions of kiwi fruit and pineapple; sprinkle with orange peel.

2. In a small bowl, mix orange juice and lime juice and pour equally over fruit. Add berry syrup to taste.

Per serving: 182 cal., 7% (13 cal.) from fat; 2 g protein; 1.4 g fat (0.1 g sat.); 46 g carbo (6.1 g fiber); 9.8 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Square deal

* Filo dough is incredibly useful when cut down to size. Sinbad Sweets of Fresno, California, has done the deed. Its 5-inch hors d'oeuvre squares--120 in an 8-ounce box-are far easier to handle than large fib sheets that dry and break apart. The frozen filo thaws in minutes (and although the company doesn't suggest it, I refreeze unused squares, airtight). I keep a supply in my freezer for appetizers--particularly for last-minute occasions, when remnants of cheese in the refrigerator can be put to use in the flaky appetizer that follows (allow 3 for a serving).