Hidden treasure - Surprise Valley, California - Brief Article

Sunset, August, 2001 by Lisa Taggart

Tucked up in northeastern California, Surprise Valley boasts miles of quiet

When brothers Jesse and Lindsay Applegate first saw Surprise Valley in 1846, in far northeastern California, their relief probably filled the entire valley.

At Fandango Pass, 6,100 feet up on the valley's northwestern entrance, they must have felt sure they'd found their goal: an alternate route for emigrants into southern Oregon.

Future settlers who took what became known as the Lassen-Applegate Emigrant Trail found the journey up the steep pass so difficult, they were known to do a victory dance--a fandango, as you might suspect--when they reached the top.

You may want to shout yourself when you get there. The view is spectacular, covering Mt. Lassen, Mt. Shasta, and the forested slopes of the Warner Mountains. You may even be able to see traces from those early settlers' wagon wheels.

Looking east to Surprise Valley what you see today is not too different from what those early travelers saw.

"One of the things we have to offer is solitude"

In one of the most remote sections of California, Surprise Valley--80 miles long, 10 miles wide, with a population of less than 2,000--has not changed much since the 19th century.

Cedarville, the valley's largest town, has a handful of homey restaurants and small businesses, many in buildings dating from when this was a major thoroughfare for gold seekers. The valley surrounding it is high-desert country, ringed by mountains that provide fantastic fishing, biking, hiking, and scenic driving. Lodging options aren't vast but do include a historic bed-and-breakfast, a quirky motel, and, just over the Nevada border, a working ranch where you can help round up cattle.

Perhaps the single loveliest gem of the area is the South Warner Wilderness, part of Modoc National Forest. Its 79 miles of trails pass high mountain lakes and streams and quiet pine and fir forests.

"One of the things we have to offer is solitude," district ranger Edith As-row tells me. "Our wilderness is so lightly used relative to most of the rest of California."

When I ask which is her favorite trail, Asrow launches into a list that only ends, 15 minutes later, when she stops to catch her breath. "You have a lot of options," she concludes. 'And I guarantee you won't see anybody"

Jeweled skies

Natural hot springs bubble up through the region's volcanic and mineral-rich rock. After a day of hiking and driving, a soak in the tubs at Surprise Valley Hot Springs is divine. And I look up and am astonished: The black night sky I'm familiar with has been transformed into jeweled cloth.

The next morning, at the Country Hearth Restaurant and Bakery, everyone seems to know each other, and the waitress calls me "honey." I order an enormous cinnamon roll that fuels me for the long drive home. At Cedar Pass, 6,305 feet up on the valley's southwestern side, the rough terrain--nearly as rough as Fandango--makes me appreciate the Applegate brothers.

Edwin Bryant, a journalist who later became alcalde of San Francisco, was equally appreciative after meeting the brothers and their group after they'd crossed Surprise Valley. "I could not but admire the enterprise of the small band of men," he wrote in his memoir, what I Saw in california "To them we are indebted for a good, well-beaten, and plain trail to the Pacific ocean."

Back then, many would call this trail and the land it crossed a mixed blessing. It was lovely country, but arduous to traverse. Today, remembering the emigrants' struggle on a visit to beautiful Surprise Valley makes you appreciate even more the ring of mountains and desert that keeps it hidden.

Surprise Valley travel planner

Surprise Valley is about 167 miles northeast of Redding via State 299. For information, contact the Shasta Cascade Wonderland Association (1699 State 273, Anderson; 530/365-7500 or www.shastacascade.org). Area code is 530 unless noted.

Attractions

Cedarville Park. The oldest structure in Modoc County lies in the park--the Cressler-Bonner Trading Post, built in 1865. At Bonner and Center St., Cedarville. For more information, contact the Greater Surprise Valley Chamber of Commerce, 519 Main St., Cedarville; 279-2001 or www.hdo.net/-svcoc.

South Warner Wilderness. In Modoc National Forest, on the west side of Surprise Valley. The entry nearest Cedarville is Emerson Campground and Trailhead, accessible via a steep gravel road. Bring plenty of water. Pick up maps ($6) at Warner Mountain Ranger District Forest Service office, Cedarville; 279-6116.

Surprise Valley/Barrel Springs Back Country Byway. The 93-mile route begins and ends in Cedarville. It follows the Lassen-Applegate Emigrant Trail east on State 299 over Fortynine Mountain in Nevada to Vya, then loops back to California. No facilities except in Cedarville. For a driving guide and maps (highly recommended), contact the BLM Surprise Resource Area; 279-6101.

Dining

Country Hearth Restaurant & Bakery. Homey diner serving burgers and chicken. 551 Main, Cedarville; 279-2280.

Lodging

J.K. Metzker House Bed & Breakfast. Three rooms in an 1860s house. From $75. 520 Main, Cedarville; 279-2650 or www.hdo.net/-metzker.