Islands Of Enchantment Hawaii For Families

Ride a restored sugarcane train, bike down a volcano, snorkel in protected waters, and hike through a bamboo forest to a gorgeous waterfall. And that's just for starters. Maui's got it all, drawing whale-watchers and windsurfers, history buffs and art connoisseurs, shoppers and backpackers.

With so many choices, why would you bother to wake up at 3 A.M., bundle the kids into the car, and drive to the 10,023-foot summit of Haleakala National Park (572-4400) and then wait there, shivering, for the sunrise? Perhaps because when the sun lights up this enormous crater and turns the shoreline far, far below into golden sands bordering aquamarine seas, the whole family will understand why Hawaiians named this mountain "House of the Sun." Nestled along Haleakala's slopes you will find picturesque towns with vintage wooden buildings, art galleries, boutique farms, and world-renowned eateries like Haliimaile General Store* (572-2666).

Listen carefully--perhaps you'll hear the haunting songs of the humpback whales, the gentle giants who winter in the winters off Maui's shores. View them from the shoreline or book a whale-watching excursion (December--May) with pacific Whale Foundation (800/942-5311); all profits go to cetacean research.

The Hawaii Nature Center (244-6500) offers family programs and guided hikes into the misty gorges of lao Valley.

MOLOKAI

Always offbeat, "the friendly isle" still boasts no traffic lights, the world's tallest sea cliffs, and Hawaii's second largest ranch. Sprawled over the island's western edge, Molokai Ranch & Lodge (877-PANIOLO) offers a made-in-heaven-or-Hollywood escape for family adventurers. Choose Kaupoa Beach for luxury camping--in bungalows by the sea that feature queensize beds--or the 22-room lodge, an elegant plantation-style inn. Then throw yourself into activities like paniolo cattle roundups, mountain biking, and sea kayaking--perhaps with a posse of spinner dolphins.

The 149-passenger Molokai Princess (800/275-6969) recently started daily ferry service between Lahaina, Maui, and Kaunakakai, Molokai. The trip takes about 85 minutes; price is $40 adults, $20 children ages 3 to 12.

LANAI

Two fabulous resorts with championship golf courses have transformed the face of Lanai, once home to the world's largest pineapple plantation. Book the Lodge at Koele or Manele Bay Hotel (800/321-4666 for both) for the ultimate in service and amenities, or try one of Lanai's bed-and-breakfasts or house rentals for a more moderate fee. You can also visit Lanai on a day trip from Maui. Trilogy Excursions (888/628-4800) offers a 2-hour catamaran trip with a tour of Lanai City, a barbecue lunch, and some of Hawaii's best snorkeling in Manele Bay.

Romance Hawaiian-Style

The children are busy with their scheduled activities and you have a chance to slip away, just the two of you, for time alone. What to do? The choices are infinite, because Hawaii's full of romantic possibilities. Relax in a hammock or ride horseback to a waterfall, glide with green sea turtles in a luminous sea or sip a mai tai on a torchlit oceanside terrace. Take a Friday night art walk in Lahaina; you might even become a collector. Browse Oahu's Chinatown galleries and catch a performance at the resplendent Hawaii Theater. Or how about wine tasting on the slopes of a volcano?