Foolproof puffs: Easy steps for making classic popovers and cream puffs - Food Entertaining - Recipe

Sunset, Feb, 2002 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

Almost like magic, simple mixtures of eggs and flour pouf into expansive, golden mounds--popovers and cream puffs. What's the secret of their silhouette?

Think of these classics as edible hot-air balloons. Both contain eggs, flour, and butter. When the batter is heated quickly, the liquid in it vaporizes; the steam stretches the structure before the proteins in the eggs and flour solidify and form a crisp shell. The oven temperature is critical: It needs to be hot enough to cause the puffs to expand quickly, but not so hot that they set before they have a chance to balloon. Make sure you preheat the oven to just the right temperature, and check its accuracy with an oven thermometer.

That's easy payment for the pleasure of spooning fruity jam into a steaming popover for breakfast or breaking into a cream-filled puff drizzled with chocolate.

Classic Popovers

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour

NOTES: If using cups that are slightly smaller or larger than 1/2 cup, adjust the baking time proportionately. You can make the popovers up to 1 day ahead; wrap airtight and store at room temperature. To recrisp, place slightly apart on a baking sheet and bake in a 375[degrees] oven until crisp, about 5 minutes.

MAKES: 6 popovers

3 large eggs

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup milk

About 1 tablespoon melted butter or margarine

1/4 teaspoon salt

1. In a blender or bowl, whirl or beat eggs, flour, milk, 1 tablespoon butter, and salt until smooth.

2. Generously brush six nonstick popover, custard, souffle, or muffin cups (1/2-cup capacity; see notes) with butter; if using pans without a nonstick finish, coat with cooking oil spray instead. Pour batter equally into cups, filling them 3/4 to almost full. Set cups about 2 inches apart in a 10- by 15-inch rimmed baking pan.

3. Bake popovers in a 375[degrees] regular or convection oven until browned and puffy, 40 to 45 minutes. Pierce each popover in several places with a thin wooden skewer, then continue baking until very well browned and crisp, about 5 minutes longer. Remove from oven and run a thin-bladed knife between edge of each popover and cup to loosen. Lift popovers from cups and serve hot.

Per popover: 172 cal., 41% (71 cal.) from fat; 6.6 g protein; 7.9 g fat (4 g sat.); l8 g carbo (0.6 g fiber); 186 mg sodium; 122 mg chol.

Cream Puff Dough (Pate a Choux)

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 15 minutes

NOTES: Use this basic dough to make the Classic Cream Puffs, Berry Hearts with Chocolate-Orange Cream, and Asiago-Pepper Puff Ring that follow.

MAKES: 2[[1/2]] cups dough; 8 to 10 servings

[[1/2]] cup ([1/4] lb.) butter or margarine

1 tablespoon sugar (optional; for dessert puffs only)

1 cup all-purpose flour

4 large eggs

1. In a 3- to 4-quart pan, combine 1 cup water, butter, and the sugar if using; bring to a boil over high heat. Add flour all at once and stir quickly until mixture pulls away from pan sides and masses together. Remove from heat and stir until flour is incorporated and mixture is smooth. Let cool about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

2. To mix by hand, add eggs, one at a time, to warm butter-flour mixture in pan, beating with a wooden spoon after each addition until dough is smooth and satiny.

To mix with an electric mixer or food processor, scrape warm butter-flour mixture into a bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating or whirling after each addition just until smooth; do not overmix.

Per serving: 157 cal., 63% (99 cal.) from fat; 3.9 g protein; 11 g fat (6.4 g sat.); 9.8 g carbo (0.3 g fiber); 119 mg sodium; 110 mg chol.

Classic Cream Puffs

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 [1/4] hours

NOTES: You can make the puffs (through step 2) up to 12 hours ahead; wrap airtight and store at room temperature. Freeze to store longer. To use, place puffs (thawed, if frozen) slightly apart on a 12- by 15-inch baking sheet. Bake in a 400[degrees] oven until crisp, 5 to 8 minutes.

MAKES: 10 servings

1. Spoon Cream Puff Dough (recipe precedes) into 10 equal mounds (about [1/4] cup each) about 2 inches apart on two lightly buttered 12- by 15-inch baking sheets.

2. Bake in a 375[degrees] regular or convection oven until puffs are golden, 25 to 35 minutes; if baking the sheets at the same time in one oven, switch their positions halfway through. With a wooden skewer, poke each puff in several places, then continue baking until golden brown, dry, and crisp, 5 to 8 minutes longer. Transfer puffs to racks to cool completely.

3. Slice the top third off each puff. Fill each bottom with [1/2] cup of one of the following: ice cream, Chocolate Orange Cream (recipe follows), or lightly sweetened whipped cream flavored with vanilla or a liqueur. Cover with tops, and drizzle each puff with 2 to 3 teaspoons chocolate ice cream topping or sprinkle lightly with powdered sugar.

Per serving: 332 cal., 54% (180 cal.) from fat; 6.4 g protein; 20 g fat (12 g sat.); 34 g carbo (0.3 g fiber); 196 mg sodium; 142 mg chol.

Berry Hearts with Chocolate-Orange Cream

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour

NOTES: If you're uncomfortable shaping the hearts freehand, use a felt-tipped pen to draw heart shapes at least 2 inches apart on cooking parchment cut to fit baking sheets. Turn paper over, place on sheets, and spread paste to fill outlines. For the crispest puffs, fill just before serving; otherwise, fill up to 4 hours ahead, then cover and chill.