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Beating the odds in Las Vegas: with a little planning, you can live large on a small bankroll in Sin City - Travel: Value Vacation

Sunset, August, 2002 by Lisa Taggart

Across the street, Bellagio's Conservatory and Botanical Gardens (free) was a lush and sweet-scented retreat. We walked past the lobby's colorful glass flower chandeliers sculpted by Dale Chihuly and into the conservatory's collection of live roses and chrysanthemums--hundreds of them in an airy greenhouse. They were swirled into patterns and shaped into butterflies. A bride was being photographed on the stairway.

Dusk was settling over the neon city when we emerged, refreshed. We were just in time for the best free spectacle of them all--the fountains at Bellagio. As Luciano Pavarotti's aria soared, a thousand lighted fountains exploded and cascaded perfectly on cue. They were surprisingly expressive as they misted, fizzed, and arced over a reflecting pool.

Dinner was tasty Mexican food with a South American influence at the Venetian's Taqueria Canonita. Pork tamales, tacos with mole, and black beans cost us $32. As we ate, a passing gondolier serenaded his passengers.

We'd been impressed with Bellagio, so we returned for nightcaps and jazz at the Allegro Jazz Lounge. It was elegant and indulgent, all for $15.

DAY THREE: A REALITY CHECK

Sunday we had a real Vegas morning. We started with Krispy Kreme doughnuts ($2), then lounged by the hotel's small pool with Bloody Marys ($12). Would it redeem us to report that we also swam a few meager laps?

We knew we were getting low on funds, so we resolved to partake in only free activities after checkout (we left a $5 housekeeping tip). We stood in line for a free pull at the giant slot machine out in front of the Tropicana. We didn't win a Mustang, but we got free tickets to the small but interesting Casino Legends Hall of Fame inside the casino.

Down the Strip, we watched two free circus acts at the Circus Circus casino. Though the crowds were a little overwhelming, the strongman duo and the flying acrobats were impressive.

And this is where our luck came in. We added up our expenses and realized we were overbudget by $10.38. Ever the optimist, my husband dragged me back to New York-New York and, after putting $2 into a slot machine, won $25! After buying a shrimp salad and a beef rice bowl for lunch with a two-for-one coupon at Chin Chin Cafe ($13.50), we went shopping, ending up with souvenir dice ($2.07).

So maybe we didn't exactly hit our target. But doing Las Vegas for around $300 sure made us feel lucky.