Downieville's new boom: mountain bikes and hiking boots have replaced picks and pans in this Gold Country town - Travel

Sunset, August, 2002 by Lisa Taggart

The story of Downieville, off State 49 in the foothills above Nevada City, is the quintessential tale of the Gold Country. When Major William Downie and his crew discovered gold here in 1849 at the Forks--where the Downie River joins the north branch of the Yuba--thousands of hopeful fortune-seekers moved into the soon-to-be-renamed town.

In less than a year, the area's population topped 5,000, 15 hotels lined the streets, and miners were taking up to $1,500 daily in placer gold out of the earth. The town was the nexus of Gold Country activity; some even thought Downieville had a strong chance at becoming the state capital.

But overeager fluming caused severe flooding in the winter of 1851. And Downieville never had the hardrock wealth of other mining regions. So in a matter of years, Downieville's riches essentially blew away

Although its population has dropped to 325, Downieville's brick buildings and beautiful location remain. The place has even experienced a modern-day boom--on a smaller-than-Gold Rush scale--as mountain bikers have discovered the area's challenging trails off Lavezzola Road. Next month, thousands swarm the town for the annual Downieville Classic, a 30-mile cross-country bicycle race and a 14-mile downhill race.

It's the seam of Old California and New California: Bikers waiting for van shuttles line up on wood sidewalks, and a gem shop that rents panning equipment sits on the same street as a latte stand.

But you don't need to be a mountain biker to explore Downieville's charming blend of eras. In fact, better if you aren't--you can avoid the most crowded trails.

Come for the hiking and fishing. Take a self-guided history tour, walking by Major Downie's cabin and the town's 19th-century gallows (used once). To the east along the North Yuba River above tiny Sierra City, you can tour the Kentucky Mine Museum's 10-stamp quartz mill, which operated into the 1950s.

Take the Lookout Trail up the Sierra Buttes to the 8,700-foot-high fire-watch station. From there you'll get incredible views of the granite peaks. The steady climb and particularly the final stairway to the fire lookout might give shaky legs to those with vertigo. But it's worth a few shakes for the top-of-the-world feeling.

You can take a meditative stroll to Pauley Creek Falls, near downtown Downieville, and out to the cemetery. Graves date back to the 1850s, when Old California's dreamers could never have imagined the 21st-century riches--more scenic than mineral--that Downieville would offer visitors today.

RELATED ARTICLE: Downieville travel planner

Downieville is 47 miles northeast of Nevada City on State 49. For additional information, contact the Sierra County Chamber of Commerce (800/200-4949 or www.sierracountychamber.com).

ACTIVITIES

Downieville Cemetery. Follow Upper Main St. northeast and bear north at Gold Bluff Rd.

Downieville Classic. Sep 6-8. (530) 289-3010 or www.downievilleclassic.com.

Downieville Foundry and Historical Park. Small mining and history museum, in a structure built in 1855. By appointment only. 166 Pearl St.; (530) 289-3261.

Downieville Museum. Mining tools and photographs of the town's early days. 330 Main St.; (530) 289-3423.

Downieville Outfitters. Bike rentals from $40 a day; shuttle service (reservations recommended) from $10. In Sierra City, 12 miles east of Downieville off State 49. (530) 862-0103 or www.downievilleoutfitters.com.

Kentucky Mine Museum. Ten-stamp quartz mill offers tours. Tours 11 and 2 Wed-Sun; $5. 1/2 mile east of Sierra City on State 49; (530) 862-1310.

Pauley Creek Falls. A short walk from downtown leads to this pretty waterfall on the Downie River. Upper Main St., past the last bridge by the green pump house.

Sierra Buttes. Tahoe National Forest; (530) 288-3231.

DINING

C&J's Downieville Diner. Hearty meals served in a building from the 1850s. 322 Main; (530) 289-3616.

Double Shot. Smoothies, snacks, and coffee. 120 Main; (530) 289-0746.

Riverview Pizzeria. Good post-hike hangout. 116 Nevada St.; (530) 289-3540.

LODGING

Downieville River Inn & Resort. Modest rooms near downtown. From $80. 121 River St.; (800) 696-3308 or www.downievilleriverinn.com.

Lure Resort. Log cabins with kitchens; a mile east of town along the Yuba River. From $85. 100 Lure Bridge Lane, off State 49; (800) 671-4084 or www.lureresort.com.

Riverside Inn. Basic rooms downtown on the river. From $63. 206 Commercial St.; (888) 883-5100 or (530) 289-1000.