Swedish sand - Food: Adventures in Cooking

Sunset, August, 2002 by Jerry Anne Di Vecchio

Swedish sand pastries convey summer celebrations for me. My introduction to them came in the form of cookies made by a Swedish friend who wanted to mark a midsummer's day with her California neighbors. Years later, I was actually in the right place at the right time--Sweden, on the longest day of the year, which, to be properly observed, must be feted through the pale gray of night until early dawn of the next day Sand pastries--this time little tarts with summer berries--were part of the grand buffet that went on through the hours of merrymaking. They're tasty enough to deserve a place in your jolly times throughout the months of summer.

What makes sand tarts taste so pleasant is their crumbly, silky texture and toasty flavor from browned butter and ground roasted almonds. You can, in fact, control the flavor and texture by how you make the tarts: If baked just until golden brown, they're tender; if richly browned--which is how I love them--they take on a crunchy bite when cool, with a melt-away texture on the palate.

Most cookware stores will carry various shapes and at least a couple of sizes of the tiny tart pans. You can use tiny ones for pretty pick-up treats or larger ones for a full-size dessert.

Sand Tarts

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour

NOTES: Served plain, sand tarts are like cookies; invert them on the plate so the impression of the mold shows. If you serve the pudgy little pastries right side up, spoon a small puff of sweetened whipped cream in the slightly depressed center and top with several fresh berries--strawberries, raspberries, or blueberries--or fresh currants. You can make the dough (steps 1 and 2) up to 3 days ahead; wrap airtight and chill. Bring to room temperature before continuing. You can make the tarts up to 3 days ahead; wrap airtight when cool and let stand at room temperature. Freeze to store longer.

MAKES: 14 tarts 2 1/2 inches wide or 7 tarts 3 inches wide

1/2  cup (1/4 lb.) butter

1/3  cup roasted salted almonds

1/3  cup sugar

  1  large egg white

  1  teaspoon vanilla

1/4  teaspoon almond extract

3/4  cup all-purpose flour

1. In a 1- to 1 1/2-quart pan over medium heat, cook butter until particles on pan bottom and foam that floats on melted butter turn amber-colored and smell toasted (mixture may bubble up), 5 to 6 minutes. Let cool at least 10 minutes.

2. In a food processor or blender, whirl almonds and sugar to a fine powder (if using a blender, transfer to a bowl). Scrape browned butter into container with nuts and sugar; add egg white, vanilla, almond extract, and flour. Whirl or stir with a fork until blended (dough will be sticky).

3. For petite tarts, use 2 1/2-inch round tart pans (about 3/4 in. deep; 2-tablespoon capacity), lining each with about 1 1/2 tablespoons dough.

For cookie-size tarts, use 3-inch round tart pans (about 1 1/4 in. deep; 5-tablespoon capacity), lining each with about 3 tablespoons dough.

With your fingertips, press dough evenly over bottom and up sides of pans (nonstick or regular), flush with rims. Set slightly apart in a shallow, rimmed pan (10 by 15 in.).

4. Bake in a 300[degrees] regular or convection oven until tarts are richly browned at the edges and slightly paler in the center, 25 to 35 minutes; small tarts brown faster, so start checking them early. (If you prefer slightly softer tarts, bake only until edges are golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes.) The tarts puff up in the center as they cook, leaving only a small depression.

5. Transfer pans to a rack and let stand until tarts are warm but comfortable to touch, 5 to 8 minutes. Then invert one pan at a time onto a flat surface and gently squeeze, tapping very gently. If tart doesn't fall out, ease free with the tip of a sharp knife. Serve warm or cool.

Per 2 1/2-inch tart: 126 cal., 63% (79 cal.) from fat; 1.8 g protein; 8.8 g fat (4.3 g sat.); 10 g carbo (0.6 g fiber); 100 mg sodium; 18 mg chol.