Bittersweet romance: dark chocolate desserts are the ultimate indulgence - Food & Entertaining

It has been the subject of lore and the object of cravings for centuries. Historical and fictional notables from Montezuma to Harry Potter have self-medicated with the stuff to great effect. Chocolate has a power to captivate unlike any other food, and its heady hold shows no signs of abating: our taste for chocolate is growing even darker and more complex.

High-quality dark chocolate is more widely available than ever, from imported standbys like Lindt and Valrhona to domestically produced Guittard (which now offers single-bean varietal chocolates) and Scharffen Berger. Dark chocolates are meant to be savored for their deliciously bitter underlying citrus, caramel, or tobaccolike notes. The same subtle flavors can elevate baked goods; choose a chocolate for baking that you enjoy eating.

These four spectacular desserts-- from creme brulee with a chocolate candy top to a chocolate-caramel cake with a gooey center--demonstrate the allure of chocolate's dark side.

Chocolate Creme Brulee

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour, plus 1 to 1 1/4 hours to chill

NOTES: Karen Krasne, creator of Extraordinary Desserts in San Diego, stretches the definition of creme brulee with this dark chocolate custard capped with a chunk of crisp chocolate praline. The custard can be made through step 5 up to 2 days ahead; cover and chill.

MAKES: 6 to 8 servings

  1 vanilla bean
  1 cup whipping cream
  1 cup milk
  6 large egg yolks (at room temperature)
3/4 cup sugar
  4 ounces each semisweet and bittersweet chocolate
    (or 8 oz. of semisweet), chopped
  1 tablespoon Amaretto or other almond-flavored liqueu
  1 tablespoon Kahlua or other coffee-flavored liqueur
    Chocolate praline (recipe follows)

1. Cut vanilla bean in half lengthwise; scrape seeds into a 2- to 3-quart pan. Add vanilla pod, cream, and milk. Stir occasionally over medium-high heat until mixture just begins to boil, 14 to 18 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a bowl, whisk together egg yolks and sugar. Place chocolate in a small, microwave-safe glass bowl and heat in a microwave oven at half-power (50%) until soft, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Stir chocolate until smooth.

3. Lift vanilla pod from cream mixture; rinse and dry for another use or discard. Whisk about 1/2 cup of the hot cream mixture into egg mixture, then whisk egg mixture into remaining cream mixture. Add hot melted chocolate (if it has cooled to room temperature, reheat briefly in microwave oven just until hot to touch; do not overheat). Pour mixture into a blender and whirl until no chocolate flecks remain. Pour through a fine strainer into a 1- to 2-quart glass measure. Stir in Amaretto and Kahlua.

4. Set six to eight souffle cups, ramekins, or teacups (1/2 to 3/4 cup) in a 9- by 13-inch baking pan. Fill cups equally with chocolate mixture. Set pan in a 300[degrees] regular or convection oven and carefully pour about 1 inch of boiling water into pan around cups.

5. Bake until centers of custards barely jiggle when pan is gently shaken, 30 to 35 minutes. With a slotted spatula, lift cups out. Chill until custards are cold, 1 to 1 1/4 hours (see notes).

6. Garnish each creme brulee with a large chunk of chocolate praline. Serve any remaining praline alongside.

Per serving: 365 cal., 57% (207 cal.) from fat; 5.3 g protein; 23 g fat (13 g sat.); 39 g carbo (1.2 g fiber); 32 mg sodium; 197 mg chol.

Chocolate Praline

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 15 minutes, plus 10 minutes to cool

NOTES: You can make this praline up to 1 week ahead; store airtight at room temperature.

MAKES: 6 to 8 servings

1. Place 1/4 cup slivered almonds in a 9-inch pie pan. Bake in a 300[degrees] regular or convection oven, shaking pan once, until nuts are golden, 10 to 12 minutes. Coat a 12-inch square of foil lightly with vegetable oil (about 1 teaspoon).

2. In an 8- to 10-inch frying pan over medium-high heat, combine 1/4 cup sugar, 2 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon corn syrup, and 1 1/2 teaspoons milk. Stir occasionally until mixture is bubbly and golden, about 5 minutes. Add 1 1/2 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa and stir until smooth, then stir in toasted almonds. Pour mixture onto oiled foil and spread about 1/4 inch thick. Let cool until solid, about 10 minutes. Break praline into 6 to 8 large chunks.

Per serving: 88 cal., 58% (51 cal.) from fat; 1 g protein; 5.7 g fat (2.1 g sat.); 9.3 g carbo (0.3 g fiber); 33 mg sodium; 7.9 mg chol.

Dark Chocolate-Chunk Brownies

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 40 minutes, plus at least 1 hour to cool

NOTES: Michael Recchiuti, a San Francisco chocolate visionary, prefers to make these moist brownies with a distinct chocolate such as L'Harmonie, a 64 percent dark chocolate blend available from E. Guittard consumer sales (800/468-2462). Serve wedges or squares topped with lightly sweetened, softly whipped cream, chopped fresh mint, and fresh raspberries; or crown pieces with vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of caramel sauce.

MAKES: 8 servings

 10 ounces bittersweet chocolate
    (see notes)
1/2 cup (1/4 lb.) butter, cut into
    1/2-inch chunks
  3 large eggs
  1 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
3/4 cup all-purpose flour