Savor the Okanagan: British Columbia's scenic valley with its deep lakes wineries and hot restaurants is at its summer best - tourism; restaurant, hotel information - includes recipes

Sunset, August, 2003 by Kate Washington, Steven R. Lorton

Kettle Valley Railroad Trail. Tracks of the old Kettle Valley Railroad have been pulled up and turned into 87 miles of biking and hiking trail. One scenic section is north of Penticton on the old tresties through Myra Canyon. For information on the trail, bike rentals (from $20 for four hours), and shut-ties or tours, contact Monashee Adventure Tours, 470 Cawston Ave., Kelowna; (250) 762-9253.

Kettle Valley Steam Railway. A 1924 steam engine pulls passenger cars through a canyon to the 238-foot Trout Creek Bridge. Twice daily Thu-Mon; $16. Prairie Valley Station west of Summerland; www.kettlevalleyrail.org or (877) 494-8424.

DINING AND LODGING

Naramata Heritage Inn & Spa. This 1908 inn has 12 rooms and is a Provincial Heritage Site. The Rock Oven Dining Room (dinner Thu-Sun) serves lamb loin en croute and roast ducking with a sweet cherry-plum sauce; the pleasant patio at the Cob blestone Wine Bar is a more casual option. From $165. 3625 First St., Naramata; www.naramatainn.com or (866) 617-1188.

Penticton Lakeside Resort Convention Centre & Casino. A full-service resort hotel with 204 rooms and suites and a casino right on the beach. At Magnums on the Lake (three meals daily; 250/493-9768), chef Ralph Kordass's menus are inventive. Rooms from $154. 21 Lakeshore Dr. W, Penticton; www.rpbhotels.com or (800) 663-9400.

Zias Stonehouse. Featuring live piano nightly in an old house, the restaurants diverse menu includes owner Shannon Ferlizza's memorable tiramisu. Lunch and dinner daily 14015 Rosedale Ave., Summerland; (250) 494-1105.

Osoyoos

Small and uncomplicated, with recently renovated motels and new restaurants, Osoyoos and the dry country around it mark the northern tip of the Sonoran Desert. While you'll find more outdoor recreation farther north, some of the Okanagan's best wineries are along the Golden Mile between Osoyoos and Oliver; this is also where the region's First Nations culture is most visible. Destination Osoyoos Visitor Info Centre, junction of Hwy 97 and Hwy. 3; www.destinationosoyoos.com or (250) 495-3366.

ATTRACTIONS

Osoyoos Desert Centre. Guided natural-history tours take visitors on a mile-long boardwalk that leads through the endangered antelope brush ecosystem in these 66 acres of protected desert habitat. Daily to mid-Cot (call for four times); $6.2 miles north of Osoyoos off Hwy 97; www.desert.org or (250) 495-2470.

Nk'Mip Desert & Heritage Centre. Pronounce it inkameep. A visitor center and more than a mile of trails that loop past a reconstructed traditional Okanagan village reveal this native culture. Daily through Sep; $7. 1000 Rancher Creek Rd.; www.nkmipdesert.com or (250) 495-7901.

Winery touring

The wineries below are open daily; pick up wine-touring maps at visitor centers. Visit www.owfs.com for events and festivals.

(1) Calona Vineyards. Tours at 11, 1, 3, and 4 ($5). Tasting and gift shop. 1125 Richter St., Kelowna; (250) 762-9144.

(2) Quails' Gate Estate Winery. Tours hourly 11-4 ($5); tasting and shop. Old Vines Patio serves lunch and dinner into October. 3303 Boucherie Rd., Kelowna; www.quailsgate.com or (800) 420-9463.