Shades of gray - Wine Guide - grape variety Pinot Gris, Pinot Grigio - wine buying guide

Sunset, August, 2003 by Karen MacNeil-Fife

Wine riddle for August: What white grape ha.s two names and multiple personalities?

Answer: Pinot Gris, aka Pinot Grigio--a wine that can so thoroughly change its identity, the CIA would be envious.

Pinot Gris is a French grape, but it's best known for its Italian personality, as Pinot Grigio. Light and fresh, Pinot Grigio has always been loved for what it is not: it is not complex, intense, or particularly aromatic, flavorful, or long on the palate. Pinot Grigio is, in fact, the ultimate no-frills, no-thought-required quaffer--just the ticket in casual Italian trattorias. Its plain-Jane quality makes it ideal for washing down almost everything.

But in France--the grape's homeland--Pinot Gris is made into a wine that's altogether a different kettle of fish. The most famous French Pinot Gris come from Alsace, possibly the most beautiful wine region in France and, incidentally, the one with the highest concentration of three-Michelin-star restaurants in the country. Here, Pinot Gris is a rich, smooth, powerful wine full of personality, with almond, vanilla, peach, and earthy aromas and flavors. The French drink it with all sorts of substantial dishes, especially pork.

So here's the big picture: think of French Pinot Gris and Italian Pinot Grigio us the bookends. In between are the versions from everywhere else. And they are up-and-coming stars in many places: Oregon, California, New Zealand--even Canada. The key to predicting the nature of any one of them is the name. When it's called Pinot Gris (as it usually is in Oregon), the style is meant to be closer to the French end of the spectrum--that is, the producer is hoping to make a fairly intense, flavorful wine. When it's called Pinot Grigio (as it usually is in New Zealand), the producer is modeling the wine closer to the light, crisp Italian version. In California, you'll find both styles: flamboyant, mouth-filling Pinot Gris and sleek, feathery Pinot Grigios.

Two common themes unite these styles, however: First, most Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigios are very easy on the wallet. Second, most are made without much new oak, so they don't have big, toasty, oaky flavors. Instead, you'll find pure, refreshing citrusy characteristics--perfect for August.

RELATED ARTICLE: Great Gris and Grigios.

Bethel Heights Pinot Gris 2002 (Oregon), $12. Beautiful meadowy, gingery aroma; limey and crisp on the palate. A fresh, dry white that's friendly toward all kinds of foods.

J Pinot Gris 2002 (Russian River Valley, CA), $18. Gingery, crisp, and zesty, with a smoothness reminiscent of cream soda and hints of citrus and almonds-- exotic and fascinating. Think light curries or Asian-spiced seafood.

Longoria Pinot Griglo 2002 (Santa Barbara County), $18. Floral and spicy, with delicious apricot and peach flavors and hints of almond and vanilla. Long, scrumptious finish.

Nautilus Pinot Gris 2002 (Marlborough, New Zealand), $18. Limey and refreshing but creamy at the same time (like a great Key lime pie), with hints of grapefruit, spice, and Mandarin orange. Crisp but not sharp in the mouth. Think grilled vegetables or that favorite Pinot Gris companion: grilled salmon.

Pierre Sparr Plnot Gris Reserve 2000 (Alsace, France), $15. Powerful and dry, with beautifully dense and concentrated peach and marzipan flavors and hints of almonds, meadows, and vanilla. Irresistible plush texture. Fantastic with a spicy pork dish like grilled kebabs.

Teresa Raiz Pinot Grigio 2001 (Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy), $13. Some Pinot Grigios have more pizzazz than others--like this one, with its lightly spicy aroma and crisp citrus, peach, and almond flavors. A winner with all sorts of light summer salads and pastas.