The west's 20 best seaside inns: from the storm-lashed Pacific Northwest to perpetually sunny Southern California, winter is the perfect time for a romantic coastal getaway - Directory - Cover Story

Sand between the toes isn't a pleasure exclusively reserved for summer. Neither are long walks on the beach or longer views of crashing surf from a rocky blufftop--especially when, at the end of the day, you don't have to go home.

Reserve a night (two-night minimum on weekends unless noted) at one of our favorite inns--all are right on a beach or bluff with rooms overlooking the sea--and even bad weather can't spoil your escape.

British Columbia & Washington

SOOKE, BRITISH COLUMBIA

Sooke Harbour House

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Everything about this white clapboard inn overlooking the Strait of Juan de Fuca conspires to let you unwind absolutely. Enjoy the warmth from your suite's fireplace, open your balcony doors to the salt air, and scan the neighboring red cedars for bald eagles. The evening's main event: dinner, a four- to seven-course prix fixe adventure served weeknights (a la carte available on weekends) in a candlelit, art-filled dining room.

SEASIDE EXPOSURE: A walk along Whiffen Spit, the sandbar that curls around Sooke Harbour, turns up harlequin ducks, oystercatchers, plovers, and, if you're lucky, orca sightings.

UNEXPECTED PLEASURE: Nearly 2 acres of herbs, vegetables, and edible flowers surround the inn; you'll find this fresh bounty on your plate each night.

ON THE MENU: Chef Edward Tuson incorporates locally harvested ingredients such as tuberous nasturtiums, grand fir, arugula greens, and chick-weed in his innovative dishes.

NEARBY TREAT: Head down the coast to Shakie's Drive In (250/646-2184) to enjoy burgers and surfer ball cookies while you watch Canadians brave the chilly waves. The beach opposite is one of Vancouver Island's prime surfing spots.

DETAILS: 28 rooms from $191 (U.S.) weekdays, from $211 (U.S.) weekends (includes breakfast and, on weekends, picnic lunch), prix fixe dinners from $54 (U.S.); no minimum stay. www.sookeharbourhouse.com or (800) 889-9688.--KIMBERLY BROWN SEELY

PORT ANGELES, WASHINGTON

Domaine Madeleine Bed & Breakfast

The first upscale B&B on the Olympic Peninsula, Domaine Madeleine is hidden in a 5-acre evergreen woodland. Most of the extra-large rooms have whirlpool baths, and all have fireplaces and easy access to the gardens.

SEASIDE EXPOSURE: High-bluff site has a commanding view across the Strait of Juan de Fuca and clear to Victoria.

UNEXPECTED PLEASURE: There are miniature bottles of French perfume in all the bathrooms--a legacy of the French founder.

ON THE MENU: Thai-born resident chef Victor Posten prepares elaborate, brunch-style breakfasts made from fresh local ingredients like Dungeness crab and Neah Bay salmon presented with fruit, pastries, and desserts.

NEARBY TREAT: The best beach walk is at Dungeness Spit, about 5 miles west, where the rain shadow often permits dry hiking when it's raining everywhere else.

DETAILS: Three rooms and two cottages from $150 weekdays, from $180 weekends (includes five-course gourmet breakfast). www.domainemadeleine.com or (888) 811-8376.--JIM McCAUSLAND

DEER HARBOR, WASHINGTON

The Inn on Orcas Island

The newest bed-and-breakfast on our list, the Inn on Orcas Island lies in the quiet Cayou Valley at the mouth of Deer Harbor. From the porch, watch rafts of birds winter on the water below. Look for seals and river otters that sometimes come in at high tide and hawks that cruise the surrounding fields for small game.

SEASIDE EXPOSURE: Located less than 1/4 mile north of Deer Harbor Marina, the inn is just steps from a lakelike tidal inlet.

UNEXPECTED PLEASURE: Longtime art enthusiasts, the owners display a large collection that features everything from botanical prints to giant oils.

ON THE MENU: Hearty breakfasts may include poppy-seed or blueberry breakfast cake, corn-and-bacon pudding, oranges in Chardonnay sauce, or Dutch babies.

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NEARBY TREAT: Head for Moran State Park, whose 30-mile trail network leads to several lakes and waterfalls plus views from atop 2,408-foot Mt. Constitution.

DETAILS: Seven rooms, one cottage from $125 (includes breakfast). www.theinnonorcasisland.com or (888) 886-1661.--J.M.

SOOKE, BRITISH COLUMBIA

Point No Point Resort

Twenty-five charmingly rustic cabins, most with private hot tubs and all with fireplaces and kitchens, sit atop remote cliffs with wonderful views along Vancouver Island's southwest coast. Lunch, high tea, and dinner are served in the Teahouse, a tiny, romantic, cliffside restaurant.

From $77 (U.S.) weekdays, from $93 (U.S.) weekends. www.pointnopoint.com or (250) 646-2020.--K.B.S.

LANGLEY, WASHINGTON

The Inn at Langley

Perched on the edge of Puget Sound, this cedar-shake inn is so close to the water that you can sometimes spot gray whales from the deck that graces each room. On clear days, enjoy views to the Cascade Range; pull up chairs to the fireplace if it rains; soak in your jetted tub no matter what the weather.

SEASIDE EXPOSURE: At low tide, the cobbled shoreline along Saratoga Passage reveals myriad marine creatures.

UNEXPECTED PLEASURE: On-site Spa Essencia offers massage, wraps, herbals, steam baths, and aromatherapy; deep relaxation is the goal.