The west's 20 best seaside inns: from the storm-lashed Pacific Northwest to perpetually sunny Southern California, winter is the perfect time for a romantic coastal getaway - Directory - Cover Story

Sunset, Feb, 2004

SEASIDE EXPOSURE: Waves crash on the cliffs below your patio; whales can be spotted from the rooms year-round. Head 2 miles north to Fogarty Creek State Recreation Area or 7 miles south to Beverly Beach State Park to stroll on the sand.

UNEXPECTED PLEASURE: Most rooms have oceanfront decks with a roomy outdoor spa tub.

ON THE MENU: The generous continental breakfast is a serve-yourself affair.

NEARBY TREAT: Pocket-size Depoe Bay bills itself as the world's smallest harbor; watch boats come and go. Browse souvenir shops along U.S. 101, then stop for dinner at newcomer Oceanus Restaurant (closed Mon-Tue; 541/765-4553).

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

DETAILS: 14 rooms from $150 weekdays, from $200 weekends (includes breakfast); two-night minimum on holidays. www.channelhouse.com or (800) 447-2140.--B.H.

NEWPORT

Sylvia Beach Hotel

* Pass on the 3 "classic" (that is, pricey and hard-to-book) rooms and opt for one of the 13 quirky, comfy "best-sellers" or 4 "novels" at this blufftop, literary-themed retreat.

20 rooms from $63 weekdays, from $83 weekends (includes breakfast). www.sylviabeachhotel.com, (888) 795-8422, or (541) 265-5428.--B.H.

NEAR YACHATS

Sea Quest Bed and Breakfast

Porch-wrapped and cedar-shingled Sea Quest is located on a deliciously lonely stretch of shore. The contemporary house was built as a B&B; guest rooms have private entrances, ocean views, and spa tubs for two.

SEASIDE EXPOSURE: Follow the 1/4-mile path through the dunes to a pocket beach for strolling or tidepooling.

UNEXPECTED PLEASURE: Wander upstairs to watch the sunset from the great room's wide, west-facing windows, or settle into an armchair to read beside the fireplace.

ON THE MENU: Innkeeper Elaine Ireland's generous breakfasts are legendary, from her homemade granola to her inventive entrees.

NEARBY TREAT: Head 4 miles north to forested trails, stellar tidepooling, and spouting horns at Cape Perpetua Scenic Area; 7 miles south, there's more hiking and a lighthouse at Heceta Head.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

DETAILS: Five rooms from $ 160 (includes breakfast); two-night minimum on Valentine's weekend. www.seaq.com, (800) 341-4878, or (541) 547-3782.--B.H.

Northern California

ELK

Elk Cove Inn

The main house, a dainty Victorian, sits on the bluff, but check into one of the new Arts and Crafts--style spa suites, and you can enjoy the sea breezes from your balcony. Oceanfront cottages boast cathedral ceilings and picture windows.

SEASIDE EXPOSURE: It's a short walk down to a wind-sheltered cove and Greenwood State Beach.

UNEXPECTED PLEASURE: Enjoy massages at the inn's day spa, complete with a jetted tub and an aromatherapy steam shower and sauna; a full bar serves 25 types of martinis in the inn's signature Z-stemmed glasses.

ON THE MENU: Breakfast favorites are hearty--think French toast and pasta-vegetable frittatas--and dinner is available Friday through Monday. You can also have dinner in Elk at Bridget Dolan's Public and Dinnerhouse (707/877-1820).

NEARBY TREAT: Point Arena Lighthouse (www.pointarenalighthouse.com or 877/725-4448), 17 miles south of Elk on State 1.