Mushroom magic: a simple saute turns pasta into a seasonal specialty - Guide

Sunset, Feb, 2004 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

With wild shapes and exotic names, more and more mushrooms are available these days. Mixing them adds layers of texture and flavor to the simplest dishes. Gourmet Mushrooms (www.gourmetmushroomsinc.com or 707/823-1743), in California's Russian River Valley, offers stunning assortments in baskets, making combining types easy.

Now the company is taking the concept of layering flavor even further in an experiment with Merry Edwards Wines, producer of delicious Pinots (an earthy wine that is a classic match for mushrooms). The mushroom producer uses oak shavings from the winebarrel-making process, then, after the mushroom harvest, sends them back to revitalize the soil in the Pinot vineyards. Try the resulting 2001 Meredith Estate Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast; $45; www.merryedwards.com or 888/388-9050)--or any Pinot--with this satisfying pasta, and taste the magic.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Sauteed Mushrooms

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 15 minutes

MAKES: About 2 cups

NOTES: Use any combination of exotic and common mushrooms. This saute is delicious on toast and grilled meats as well as in the pasta.

  1  pound assorted fresh mushrooms

  2  tablespoons olive oil

1/3  cup chopped shallots

  1  teaspoon dried thyme

     Salt and pepper

1. Trim and discard tough or discolored stem ends and any bruised spots or blemishes from mushrooms. (If you're using shiitakes, remove their entire stems.)

For firm mushrooms, wipe dirt off with a damp cloth or rinse thoroughly under cool running water and pat dry.

For delicate mushrooms with lots of places for dirt to hide, submerge in a bowl of cool water and gently agitate with your hands to loosen any particles. Drain, rinse thoroughly under running water, and gently pat dry.

Slice large, fat mushrooms about 1/4 inch thick; cut thin ones into bite-size pieces; leave small ones whole.

2. Pour olive oil into a 12-inch frying pan or 5- to 6-quart pan over high heat; add mushrooms, shallots, and thyme and stir often until mushrooms are browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per 1/2 cup: 98 cal., 66% (65 cal.) from fat; 2.7 g protein; 7.2 g fat (1 g sat.); 7.5 g carbo (1.5 g fiber); 6.2 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Mushroom Linguine

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 15 minutes

MAKES: 4 servings

  8  ounces dried linguine

  1  cup fat-skimmed chicken broth or
     vegetable broth

1/3  cup whipping cream

     Sauteed mushrooms (recipe at
     left)

  2  tablespoons chopped parsley

     Salt and pepper

     Finely shredded parmesan cheese

1. In a 5- to 6-quart pan over high heat, bring 3 quarts water to a boil. Add linguine, stir, and cook until barely tender to bite, 7 to 9 minutes. Drain.

2. Add broth and whipping cream to sauteed mushrooms in pan over high heat; stir until mixture is boiling. Add drained pasta and stir until hot. Pour onto a platter or dinner plates. Garnish pasta with parsley, and add salt, pepper, and shredded parmesan cheese to taste.

Per serving: 374 cal., 34% (126 cal.) from fat; 12 g protein; 14 g fat (4.9 g sat.); 50 g carbo (2.9 g fiber); 36 mg sodium; 22 mg chol.