Pretty in pink: rhubarb's sweet-tart flavor brightens classic desserts - Food

Sunset, Feb, 2004 by Kate Washington

Rhubarb seems to be one of those love-it-or-hate-it foods, and I've never really understood why. Its perfectly lovable, tartly refreshing taste is wonderful in simple desserts. Bake it with sugar to make an easy compote that's great on its own or in a layered rhubarb--lemon cream pie, or top the chopped fruit with streusel for a homey rhubarb crisp.

Now is the time to bring rhubarb into your kitchen. Tender, bubble gumpink stalks of hothouse rhubarb start to appear in markets in February; deeper red field-grown specimens come into season in April and are available through May or June. (Either type is great in our recipes.) This long season is good news for those who love rhubarb--and for whom its tang is one of the sweetest tastes of spring.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Rhubarb--Lemon Cream Pie

PREP AND COOK TIME: 45 minutes, plus at least 1 hour to chill

MAKES: 8 to 10 servings

  5  tablespoons butter, cut into chunks

  5  large egg yolks

1/2  cup sugar

  2  teaspoons grated lemon peel

1/2  cup lemon juice

  1  teaspoon unflavored gelatin

  1  cup whipping cream

  1  baked single-crust 9-inch pie pastry

     Easy rhubarb compote (recipe
     follows), chilled

1. In a 2- to 3-quart pan over low heat, combine butter, egg yolks, sugar, lemon peel, and lemon juice. Stir constantly until mixture thickly coats the back of a wooden spoon, 10 to 12 minutes (do not boil). Pour into a small bowl, cover, and chill until cold, at least 2 hours, or nest pan in a large bowl of ice water and stir mixture until cold, about 10 minutes.

2. In a heatproof 1-cup glass measure, sprinkle gelatin over 2 tablespoons cold water. Let stand until soft, 2 to 3 minutes. Put 1 inch of water in a small pan; bring to a boil over high heat, then remove from heat. Set measure in water in pan and stir until gelatin is dissolved, 2 to 3 minutes. Let cool.

3. In a large bowl, beat cream until slightly thickened. Beating constantly, pour in gelatin; continue beating until soft peaks form.

4. Stir about 1/2 cup whipped cream into cold lemon mixture until well blended, then scrape lemon mixture into remaining whipped cream and fold gently until incorporated. Spoon into pie crust and spread level. Cover with plastic wrap and chill until firm, at least 1 hour, or up to 1 day.

5. Pour rhubarb compote into a fine strainer set over a bowl. Let drain until dripping stops, then gently spoon rhubarb pieces over lemon cream (reserve liquid for other uses; see "Quick Rhubarb Ideas" at right). Cut pie into wedges.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Per serving: 421 cal., 47% (198 cal.) from fat; 4.1 g protein; 22 g fat (11 g sat.); 54 g carbo (0.3 g fiber); 174 mg sodium; 148 mg chol.

Easy Rhubarb Compote

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour

MAKES: About 4 cups

NOTES: Cooking rhubarb in the oven is less work than cooking it on the stove and also preserves its brilliant pinkish red color better. Spoon the compote over ice cream, serve it chilled with shortbread cookies, or use it in rhubarb--lemon cream pie (recipe precedes) or other desserts (see "Quick Rhubarb Ideas" at right). It keeps, chilled airtight, up to 1 week.

    2  pounds rhubarb, rinsed, ends trimmed,
       and cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1 1/2  cups sugar

1. Mix rhubarb and sugar in a 9- by 13-inch baking dish and spread level. Cover dish tightly with foil.

2. Bake in a 350[degrees] regular or convection oven until rhubarb is very soft when pierced but just holds its shape, about 45 minutes (35 in convection oven). Serve warm or cool.

Per cup: 333 cal., 1% (3.6 cal.) from fat; 1.8 g protein; 0.4 g fat (0 g sat.); 84 g carbo (0 g fiber); 8.9 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Rhubarb Crisp

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour

MAKES: 6 to 8 servings

NOTES: To toast the almonds, spread them in a baking pan and bake in a 350[degrees] oven until golden under skins, 8 to 10 minutes. You can serve this crisp warm from the oven or at room temperature. It's delicious topped with scoops of vanilla ice cream or dollops of softly whipped cream.

  1  cup all-purpose flour

  1  cup granulated sugar

1/4  cup firmly packed brown sugar

1/2  cup chopped toasted almonds
     (see notes)

  1  teaspoon grated lemon peel

3/4  teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4  teaspoon salt

1/2  cup (1/4 lb.) cold butter,
     cut into chunks

  2  pounds rhubarb, rinsed, ends
     trimmed, and cut into
     1/2-inch pieces

1. In a bowl, mix flour, 1/4 cup granulated sugar, the brown sugar, almonds, lemon peel, 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, and the salt. With a mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, at low speed, or with your fingers, beat or rub in butter until mixture forms coarse crumbs and begins to come together.

2. In large bowl, mix rhubarb, remaining 3/4 cup granulated sugar, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon. Pour into an 8-inch square baking pan and spread level. Sprinkle evenly with flour mixture.

3. Bake in a 375[degrees] regular or convection oven until juices are bubbly and topping is golden brown, 45 to 50 minutes (40 to 45 minutes in convection oven).

Per serving: 351 cal., 41% (144 cal.) from fat; 4.3 g protein; 16 g fat (7.6 g sat.); 50 g carbo (1.4 g fiber); 197 mg sodium; 31 mg chol.