The other Sierra: take in sublime scenery along the range's rugged eastern stretch

Sunset, August, 2004 by Amy Marr

While the admiring throngs swarm Yosemite and Tahoe, we'll happily take the Eastern Sierra Nevada. On this side of the famous mountain range, sunbleached plains sweep toward the Great Basin of Nevada, while westward, the ragged Sierra crest juts up sharply from aspen thickets.

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Gold was found near Mono Lake in 1859, which led to an overnight stampede of miners. When the boom turned to bust, many left just as quickly, and the glorious landscape has stayed quietly under the tourist radar ever since, leaving behind a landscape that has remained remarkably unchanged.

Our three-day Sierra sojourn runs from north to south, covering about a 70-mile swath of the range. All of our stops are easily accessible from U.S. 395, and you'll make good use of your car while exploring.

Friday

The town of Lee Vining, at the junction of U.S. 395 and State 120/Tioga Pass Road, is charming in a kitschy, Old West sort of way. Make your first stop the Tioga Gas Mart, home to the Whoa Nellie Deli ($; 22 Vista Point Dr., Lee Vining; 760/647-1088), where you can start the day with a delicious smoked trout omelet.

Got tufa? Mono Lake, a sparkling, alkaline expanse of seafoam blue, sprawls 70 square miles across the sunbaked desert. It's an otherworldly site, fringed with dunes and studded with bone-white calcium carbonate spires called tufa towers. Stop in at the Mono Lake Committee Information Center (U.S. 395 at Third St., Lee Vining; www.monolake.org or 760/647-6595) to plot your exploration of choice. Some favorites: canoeing near Navy Beach, hiking to Panum Crater, and joining a free guided bird walk.

Saddle up or cast off. About 20 minutes south of Mono Lake, take State 158 (the June Lake Loop) for a scenic 16-mile drive past a handful of glittering mountain lakes. Near Silver Lake, trade your wheels for a horse: The Frontier Pack Train (from $25; 760/648-7701) offers guided hour and half-day rides. Or try your angling luck in the trout-filled waters--pick up maps, advice, and gear at Ernie's Tackle Shop (2604 State 158, June Lake Village; 760/648-7756). Afterward, stop at Trout Town Joe ($; on Main St., June Lake Village; 760/648-7170), known for delicious salads, wrap sandwiches, and art exhibits.

Siesta, then fiesta. At the northeast end of June Lake, a tiny beach is perfect for a late-afternoon siesta and swim. Afterward, drive 30 minutes south to locally adored Roberto's Cafe, in the town of Mammoth Lakes ($$; 271 Old Mammoth Rd.; 760/934-3667), to hang out on the patio and chow down on the best Mexican food in the area.

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Saturday

Spend today exploring the Mammoth Mountain area, where locals swear by the protein-laden breakfasts at the Stove ($; 644 Old Mammoth Rd.; 760/934-2821). Pack lunch for an activity-filled day; the Good Life Cafe ($; 126 Old Mammoth Rd.; 760/934-1734) has healthy sandwiches.

Hike up. Boasting 40- to 60-foot-tall columns of blue-gray basalt, Devils Postpile National Monument (www.nps.gov/depo or 760/934-2289) is a visual reminder of this area's volcanic past. To get there, hop on the shuttle bus ($7) that departs every 30 minutes from the Mammoth Mountain Adventure Center, near the gondola. Then try the 2 1/2-mile hike past Devils Postpile and on to spectacular 101-foot Rainbow Falls.

And zoom down. Mammoth Mountain Ski Area's excellent Mountain Bike Park (passes from $31, $64 including rental; 760/934-0706) has become required riding for knobby-wheel enthusiasts. More than 80 miles of lavalike single-track trails mean lots of good options for burly bunny hoppers and beginners alike.

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Follow the sinking sun. As the shadows grow longer, head to the Minaret Vista, about 1 1/2 miles past the ski area's main lodge along State 203. Linger over the view, which encompasses the San Joaquin River Valley, Banner Peak, Mt. Ritter, and the sawtooth Minarets, named for their resemblance to mosque towers.

Eat like a Viking. For dinner, head to Restaurant Skadi ($$$$; Wed-Sun; Old Mammoth Rd. and Chateau Rd., Mammoth Lakes; 760/934-3902), named after the Viking goddess of skiing and hunting. The Scandinavian-inspired fare includes pan-roasted salmon, venison, and roast duck with lingonberries.

Sunday

Jump-start your day with an intensely aromatic coffee at the Looney Bean ($; 3280 Main St., Mammoth; 760/934-1345).

Visit a Convict. Despite its name--hailing from a group of jailbreakers who were apprehended here--the clear emerald waters of Convict Lake are a supremely serene spot. The lake is located 9 miles south of Mammoth, just off U.S. 395 on Convict Lake Road. Afterward, stroll into the aspenshaded Restaurant at Convict Lake for a delicious lunch ($; inside the Convict Lake Resort; 760/934-3803).

Learn the ropes. Unpretentious Bishop lures rock climbers galore, who flock to the area's stellar granite faces. Learn the basics with an introductory climbing class at the Sierra Mountain Center ($100, reservations suggested; 174 W. Line St., Bishop; www.sierramountain center.com or 760/873-8526).