Picnic season: try buttermilk chicken on the grill for an easy outdoor meal

Sunset, August, 2004 by Kate Washington

Grilled chicken is an all-American summer classic, perfect for a picnic or a backyard dinner. But when you soak it in a buttermilk brine for extra moist and tender results and add subtle Indian-inspired spices, it suddenly becomes special.

Nobody wants to be stuck in the kitchen on sultry summer nights, so we've devised a flexible alfresco menu that lends itself to anything from a beach party with the kids to a nighttime concert in the park with friends and a bottle of wine.

Our buttermilk-brined chicken is savory and juicy, whether you grill it ahead of time or at your picnic site. Fresh corn and arugula salad combine the best vegetables of the season with the delicate flavor of crushed coriander, while cornmeal pound cake with chai spices sets off a topping of ripe summer fruit. Buy some chewy onion flatbread to nibble alongside, and serve a crisp Riesling and icy lemonade to sip.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Grilled Buttermilk Chicken

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes, plus at least 4 hours to chill

MAKES: 6 servings

NOTES: Brine the chicken up to 1 day before grilling; grill up to 1 day before serving (chill airtight). Transport in brine when grilling on-site. Keep the meat well chilled in an ice chest until ready to serve or grill.

  1  quart buttermilk
1/2  cup chopped shallots
  2  tablespoons chopped garlic
  2  tablespoons kosher salt
  2  tablespoons sugar
  1  tablespoon ground cumin
  1  teaspoon pepper
  6  chicken thighs
     (about 2 1/2 lb. total)
  6  chicken drumsticks
     (about 1 3/4 lb. total)

1. In a large bowl, mix buttermilk, shallots, garlic, salt, sugar, cumin, and pepper.

2. Rinse chicken thighs and drumsticks and pat dry. Trim off excess fat. Submerge chicken pieces in buttermilk brine. Cover and chill for at least 4 hours, or up to 1 day (see notes).

3. Lift chicken from brine; discard brine. Wipe excess from chicken with paper towels.

4. Lay chicken pieces on a barbecue grill over medium coals or medium heat on a gas grill (you can hold your hand at grill level only 4 to 5 seconds); close lid on gas grill. Cook, turning frequently, until browned on both sides and no longer pink at the bone (cut to test), 20 to 30 minutes. Serve hot or cold.

Per serving: 402 cal., 51% (207 cal.) from fat; 43 g protein; 23 g fat (6.4 g sat.); 4 g carbo (0.1 g fiber); 670 mg sodium; 149 mg chol.

Corn and Arugula Salad

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 20 minutes

MAKES: 6 servings

NOTES: To cut kernels off ears of corn, pull off husks and silks; rinse ears. Hold each upright in a deep bowl; cut off kernels close to cob (see "Aw, Shucks," page 95). Crush coriander seeds (step 3) up to 2 days ahead; store in a zip-lock plastic bag at room temperature. Make dressing (step 1) up to 1 day ahead; cover and chill. Prepare the vegetables and mix the salad (step 2) up to 4 hours ahead; cover and chill.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

1/4  cup cider vinegar
  3  tablespoons minced shallots
  2  teaspoons Dijon mustard
1/2  teaspoon salt
1/4  cup olive oil
  4  cups fresh corn kernels
     (from 4 or 5 ears; see notes)
 12  ounces radishes, rinsed,
     trimmed, and thinly sliced
  5  ounces baby arugula leaves
     (about 8 cups), rinsed and crisped
  2  teaspoons coriander seeds

1. In a small bowl, whisk vinegar, shallots, mustard, and salt until thick and emulsified. Gradually whisk in olive oil.

2. In a 3- to 4-quart pan over high heat, bring 2 quarts of water to a boil. Add corn kernels and cook for 1 minute; drain, rinse with cold water until cool, and drain again. In a large bowl, combine corn, radishes, and arugula.

3. In a mortar, lightly crush coriander seeds (or place seeds in a zip-lock plastic bag and crush with a mallet or rolling pin).

4. Pour dressing over the arugula mixture and gently mix to coat. Sprinkle salad with crushed coriander seeds.

Per serving: 191 cal., 52% (99 cal.) from fat; 4.4 g protein; 11 g fat (1.4 g sat.); 24 g carbo (5 g fiber); 268 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Spiced Cornmeal Pound Cake

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/2 hours, plus at least 1 hour to cool

MAKES: 6 to 8 servings

NOTES: You can make the cake up to 1 day ahead; when cool, wrap airtight and store at room temperature.

  3/4  cup (3/8 lb.) butter,
       at room temperature
  3/4  cup sugar
    3  large eggs
  1/4  cup milk
    1  teaspoon vanilla
1 1/2  cups all-purpose flour
  1/3  cup yellow or white cornmeal
    1  teaspoon baking powder
  1/4  teaspoon each ground cinnamon,
       cloves, and cardamom
  1/4  teaspoon salt

1. In a bowl, with a mixer at medium speed, beat butter and sugar until well blended. Add eggs, one at a time, beating to blend well after each addition. Beat in milk and vanilla.

2. In another bowl, mix flour, cornmeal, baking powder, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, and salt. Add flour mixture to butter mixture and beat at medium speed just until well blended.

3. Spread batter level in a buttered and floured 8- by 4 1/2-inch loaf pan.

4. Bake in a 325[degrees] oven until cake is golden on top and just begins to pull from pan sides, 60 to 70 minutes. Cool in pan on a rack for about 15 minutes, then invert cake from pan, set upright on rack, and let cool completely, about 1 hour. To serve, cut into slices.