Light of heart: try this crisp, low-fat treat from the Sunset archives

Sunset, Feb, 2008 by Margo True

WHERE WAS THE LOVE? Early on at Sunset, romantic food was nonexistent. Most of our Valentine's Day stories before 1950 had to do with centerpiece decor--that is, when the day surfaced at all. More often, Presidents' Day was the bigger deal.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Valentine's recipes finally began showing up in the '50s, but they were family-oriented, for food like heart-shaped French toast for kids. It wasn't until February 1970 that romance burst onto our food pages, and how: Flaming cherry sundaes for two, anyone? Once lit, love kept burning. Over the next 20 years, we published recipes for giant German spice-cookie valentines (photographed clasped to the chest of a strapping blonde in a dirndl); a vast heart of candied popcorn; and ambitious projects (doubtless for the strongest of heart) like chocolate boxes, corsages, and even chocolate profiles of one's beloved.

These meringues, accompanied by a photo of the happy eater nuzzling the cook, were part of a trio of sweet treats for two that were dreamed up to "please someone special on Valentine's Day." Airy, crisp, and practically fat-free, they're as light and fun as a good first date.

Meringue hearts (February 1976)

We've slightly tweaked the original recipe, Meringue Heart Sundaes, to use strawberry frozen yogurt instead of ice cream, and we've substituted white chocolate curls for the thawed frozen strawberries.

PREP AND COOK TIME 25 minutes, plus about 3 1/4 hours of baking, cooling, and chilling time

MAKES Four 3-in. heart-shaped meringues

NOTES The original made only 2 hearts, each 5 in. wide, but we felt that they were a little on the large side; these smaller hearts let you choose whether to have one or two. If you're serving them in summer, try topping each with a sliced fresh strawberry instead of the white chocolate curls. You can make the meringues (through step 3) up to 1 day ahead; cool completely, then wrap airtight and store at room temperature.

1 egg white
1/8 tsp. cream of tartar
1/4 cup plus 2 tsp. sugar
1/4 tsp. vanilla
About 1 cup strawberry frozen yogurt, softened until spreadable
White chocolate curls, shaved with a vegetable peeler from a chunk of
  white chocolate

1. With an electric mixer, beat egg white and cream of tartar until very foamy. Gradually sprinkle in sugar, about 1 tbsp. at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat until meringue holds very stiff, shiny peaks, at least 10 minutes. Add vanilla; beat about 30 seconds longer.

2. Preheat oven to 225[degrees]. Cover a baking sheet with parchment. On it, draw 4 heart shapes, each 3 in. at the widest point. Turn parchment over and, with a knife, spread meringue 1/4 in. thick over each heart shape, building up sides so they stand an additional 1/2 to 3/4 in. high.

3. Bake meringues for 45 minutes. Turn off oven and let meringues dry in oven for 1 1/2 hours. If making ahead, see Notes.

4. About 1 to 2 hours before serving, fill each meringue with softened frozen yogurt. Place in freezer and chill until firm, at least 1 hour. Top hearts with white chocolate curls and serve.

PER MERINGUE 107 CAL., 8.4% (9 CAL.) FROM FAT; 1.9 G PROTEIN; 1 G FAT (0 G SAT.); 23 G CARBO (0 G FIBER); 39 MG SODIUM; 3.5 MG CHOL.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ANNABELLE BREAKEY